This is a guest blog post. Scroll to the bottom for more details.
Air sealing and adding insulation to an existing house could have negative impacts on both the occupants and the house. Wait…adding insulation is supposed to be a good thing, right? If done properly, yes. Houses are complex systems. There are many interactive components that impact the way a house performs and regulates heat, air, and moisture. Air sealing and adding insulation to your attic can reduce heating bills, improve comfort, prevent frost accumulation, and even help eliminate ice dams. These outcomes are intended. However, sometimes air sealing and adding insulation can lead to unintended consequences. What should you be aware of as a homeowner before you decide to "improve" your attic?
Back Drafting
When air leaves the house, outside air will be pulled in to replace the air that left. The amount of air coming in always equals the amount of air being pulled out. This exchange of air happens when you run your bath fans, range hood, or clothes dryer. Depressurization occurs when there is more air leaving the house than coming in. Depressurization can cause a handful of problems, but I will focus on back drafting.
Back drafting occurs when a combustion appliance, such as a water heater, can't generate enough draft to vent the combustion gases up the flue and out of the house. When backdrafting happens, these gases spill into the house, causing a potential buildup of carbon monoxide. Unintentional carbon monoxide exposure accounts for an estimated 15,000 emergency department visits and 500 unintentional deaths in the United States each year. (Source: http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm5650a1.htm).
While the Minnesota Fuel Gas Code has specific installation requirements for gas water heaters, just following all of these rules doesn't mean a water heater will draft properly. Even with a proper installation, there are three common home improvements that can cause problems with existing water heaters.
- Tightening the enclosure. This is done by air sealing gaps or cracks in the exterior of the house, adding insulation or weather stripping, and replacing windows or siding.
- Adding ventilation appliances such as bath fans, larger cooktop vent hoods or whole house ventilation fans.
- Replacing the furnace. When older furnaces are replaced with newer sealed combustion units, the water heater vent often becomes "orphaned". It used to share a large flue with the old furnace, but now it's left to fend for itself to produce a draft. The relatively small burner on a water heater doesn't always produce enough draft to work properly by itself, so it backdrafts.
Backdrafting can be prevented by not having open combustion appliances – this often means replacing the old natural draft water heater with a powervent, direct-vent, or electric water heater. Performing a worst-case depressurization test can determine if back drafting is occurring already, and can help predict if it will occur when the home is made tighter.
Moisture and Air Quality Problems
A common misconception in the building industry is that a house "needs to breathe." If a house is too tight, it could lead to mold and moisture problems. Typically, the older the house is, the leakier it is. And the leakier it is, the less likely it is to have mold and moisture problems. What's the trade-off? A drafty, uncomfortable house, with high heating bills. Newer houses are much more airtight. This means that there is less uncontrolled air leakage and heat loss. Without mechanical ventilation, tighter houses could develop moisture and air quality issues. The tighter the house, the more important mechanical ventilation becomes. A more accurate statement created by the building science community is "Build tight, ventilate right."
Air sealing and insulating an attic can greatly impact the airtightness of a house and therefore change the ventilation rate, leading to elevated interior moisture levels, condensation on windows and mold growth.