One-pan cauliflower recipe gets the best of both cooking worlds

Cauliflower is a star of the veggie aisle, thanks to its neutral flavor, versatility and low-calorie, high-nutritive content.

Of all the different cooking methods — steamed, stir-fried, riced, etc. — I like roasting it on the stovetop and finishing it in the oven. Cut the cauliflower head into thick slices so that the flat sides sear in a heavy skillet, then pop them in a hot oven so they turn crisp at the edges but are meltingly tender within. The few leftover crumbles become nutty, crunchy bits.

The key to success is a heavy pan that distributes the heat evenly both on the stovetop and in the oven. A cast-iron skillet works well, and a Flameware ceramic skillet is even better. Made of a clay that doesn't expand nearly as much as standard stoneware, Flameware cookware can go from stovetop to oven without any risk of damage. One of the few sources for this cookware is right in our backyard — Clay Coyote in Hutchinson, Minn. Here, owner Morgan Baum and her team make all the pottery by hand, and it's glazed and fired on-site. The pretty pans, which can double as a serving dishes, work on most cooking surfaces, from gas and electric stoves to outdoor grills.

Pan-roasted cauliflower is simple and delicious with just a splash of lemon, coarse salt, freshly ground black pepper and a handful of chopped fresh herbs. Try it with a side of your favorite barbecue sauce or hummus for dipping or whir up chermoula (a zippy cilantro pesto) and a chile-spiked yogurt sauce. It's a terrific starter or hearty side dish. Paired with cooked whole grain and chickpeas, tossed with pasta, or on top of polenta and shredded Parmesan cheese, it's a satisfying vegetarian meal. Try leftovers on salads, bruschetta and tossed into soups, curries, casseroles and stews.

Just one simple technique can turn cauliflower heads a dozen different and delicious ways.

Serves 4

In this simple one-pan dinner, the cauliflower starts on the stovetop, covered for a couple of minutes to "sweat" or steam, then is seared on both sides. Topped with chopped green olives, it's finished in a hot oven. Roasting draws out cauliflower's natural sweetness as it turns a crusty brown and the olives add pops of salty goodness. Serve with a whole grain, pasta or rustic bread and a salad for a simple vegetarian meal. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 head cauliflower

• Coarse salt

• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary

• 2 tbsp. olive oil

• 1/4 c. coarsely chopped green olives

• Lemon juice

• Chermoula, for serving (see recipe)

• Spicy Yogurt Sauce, for service (see recipe)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Trim the green leaves from the cauliflower base and cut cauliflower into flat 1/2-inch-thick slices. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with the rosemary.

Film a heavy skillet with the oil and set over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to ripple, lay the cauliflower slices in the skillet and cover to cook for about 2 minutes to lightly steam. Remove the cover and sear until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Scatter the olives over the cauliflower and place the skillet in the oven. Roast until the cauliflower is nicely browned and tender and the olives have shriveled slightly, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season with a splash of lemon juice and serve with chermoula or spicy yogurt sauce (or both) alongside.

Makes 1/2 cup.

This zippy cilantro pesto will keep about a week in a covered container in the refrigerator. It's great on fish, chicken and rice and beans. From Beth Dooley.

• 1/2 c. coarsely chopped cilantro

• 1/2 c. coarsely chopped parsley

• 1 tsp. ground cumin, or more to taste

• 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom, or more to taste

• 1 clove garlic, smashed

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

• Generous pinch of coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 2 tbsp. lemon juice

• 1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

• 1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Put all of the ingredients into a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade and pulse until it becomes a thick paste. If it seems too thick, process in a tablespoon or two more of the oil until you reach the desired consistency. Serve.

Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: This simple yogurt sauce gets a kick from ras el hanout, a complex fragrant Moroccan blend of cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and hot pepper. Find it in the spice aisle of most supermarkets and co-ops. You may substitute your favorite curry blend. It's a great dip for carrot sticks and chips and delicious alongside grilled lamb.

• 1/2 c. plain whole milk Greek yogurt

• 1 tsp. ras el hanout, or more to taste (see Note)

• 1 tsp. fresh lime juice, or more to taste

Directions

In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.