Versatile rhubarb-orange sauce should top desserts all summer long

Now that rhubarb season is finally upon us, I yearn for my Aunt Rose's rhubarb pies. I've inherited her recipe, jotted in pencil on an old file card, but not her magical touch with pastry.

Rather than struggle with a fussy, messy pie dough that never seems quite right, I turn to a simple hack — packaged meringues from the grocery store. They are light and airy and ready to go. If I'm feeling ambitious, and have the time, I'll make my own. But these are guaranteed to be perfect and, unlike mine, they don't weep in humid weather.

Rhubarb is often paired with strawberries, however that season is a couple of weeks out and I'd rather focus on the rhubarb in markets now. When shopping for rhubarb, you may find a range of color from deep red to light pink or pale green. Despite a subtle difference in sweetness, color doesn't indicate much variation in taste or quality. Look for firm, crisp stalks that are blemish-free with leaves that are not wilted. Store the stalks unwashed in the refrigerator for no more than a week.

If you're lucky enough to have an abundance of rhubarb, store it in the freezer and you're ready to bring a taste of spring into the kitchen on cold winter nights. To freeze rhubarb, simply cut the stalks into 1-inch pieces; lay them flat on a baking sheet and set them in the freezer until they are firm (about two hours). Then transfer them into freezer bags. They'll keep for up to a year, long enough to get you to the following season.

This compote is deliciously easy and not too sweet. Spoon it over ice cream, angel food cake, pancakes and waffles. Whisk it into mayonnaise for sandwiches and salads. Serve it as a condiment on a cheese plate. Here, as a filling for airy meringues, it makes an effortless high-impact dessert.

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: This easy compote makes a wonder filling for crisp, light meringues, like those from local maker Bistro Meringues (bistromeringues.com). Find them at Twin Cities grocery stores and co-ops. But don't stop there — spoon this over pound cake, angel food cake or shortcakes and top with whipped cream. It will keep at least a week in the refrigerator and may be frozen for up to a year. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 lb. rhubarb, cubed (about 3 to 4 c.)

• 1/2 c. honey

• 1 tbsp. grated orange rind

• 2 tbsp. fresh orange juice

Directions

In a medium saucepan, stir together the rhubarb, honey, orange rind and orange juice. Let mixture sit about 5 minutes to draw out the rhubarb's juices. Set pan over low heat. When the rhubarb begins to soften, but before it falls apart, about 5 minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer rhubarb to a bowl.

Increase the heat and bring the remaining liquid to a simmer and cook until it becomes syrupy, another 5 minutes. (This thickens the sauce and intensifies the flavor.) Pour the thickened sauce over the rhubarb and allow it to cool before transferring it to a covered container to store in the refrigerator. It will keep for about a week or may be frozen.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.