The year's holiday season is going to be very different. But there's a constant in which we can take comfort, and that's cookies. Let's all spread some holiday cheer and bake. Let's bake like we've never baked before. Fortunately, our readers are here to support their fellow Minnesotans. This year's batch of contest entries boasted more bakeable recipes than we've seen in the past 18 years, and that welcome burst of creative energy and enthusiasm made selecting a winner and four finalists a true challenge. We want to express our gratitude to everyone who submitted a recipe, and to all the bakers out there who will make this month sparkle. Happy holidays.
Winner Spumoni Squares
Baker: Joanne Holtmeier of Edina.
The scoop: An elegant and ingenious bar cookie that turns nuts and dried fruits — and citrus — into an occasion.
Power player: Holtmeier is a three-time finalist in our competition, with Limoncello Kisses in 2017, Coffee and Irish-Cream Dreams in 2018 and Italian Cream Cake Cookies in 2019.
What's in a name: This spumoni is not a nod to the standard tri-color ice cream found in supermarket frozen-foods aisles. Instead, Holtmeier became slightly obsessed by the fruit-and-nut version made at Sebastian Joe's in Minneapolis. "I'm a little worried that Sebastian Joe's thinks I'm a stalker," she said with a laugh. "I'd call, or pop in, just to ask, 'Do you have the spumoni?' " One day, a staffer kindly revealed the ice cream's key ingredients to its No. 1 fan. "It was lemon peel, orange peel, apricots and almonds," said Holtmeier. "I love those flavors and I thought, 'Hmm, I'm going to bake this into a cookie.' " The rest is history.
Going the bar cookie route: Holtmeier started with a drop cookie. "They were good, but they weren't quite right," she said. A batch of leftover almond sugar cookie dough, stashed in the freezer, gave her an idea: Why not spread it in a pan, and add toppings? She had apricots and almonds on hand; walnuts, too, because she loves walnuts. "Suddenly, it was a much fancier-looking version," she said. Borrowing from baklava, Holtmeier added a finishing-touch syrup, which helps bind the fruit-nut topping to the cookie-like base.
Mixing it up: "I was worried about straying too far from the Sebastian Joe's ice cream flavor, but I also tried using dried cranberries and pistachios in the mix, and it was pretty darned good," said Holtmeier. "They gave it a little green and red, and that never hurts during the Christmas season." Agreed. We really like that colorful combination, too.
Judges' reactions: "It's chewy, fruity, crunchy, nutty and buttery, and that's such a great combination of flavors and textures." "What a pretty bar cookie." "The shortbread crust has a wonderful almond flavor." "Reminds me of a thoroughly modern — and fabulous — version of fruitcake."