Anxiety sweat. Horsehair. Wet grass and soil after a rain. Sulfuric compounds from gunpowder. Eau de cologne containing rosemary, bergamot and bitter orange. A touch of leather.
This might have been what Napoleon's retreat from the Battle of Waterloo in 1815 smelled like. At least, these are some of the elements that Caro Verbeek, an art historian and olfactory researcher, incorporated into a project called "In Search of Lost Scents" at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
"Wars are extremely smelly," she said. "Soldiers don't write about their injuries as much as they write about the terrible sounds and smells. So we know more about them."
We also know that it had rained the night before the battle, that anxiety sweat smells different from normal sweat, and that there were thousands of horses. And we know the ingredients of Napoleon's perfume — he wore liters of it every day and carried a bottle in his boot.
In the growing field of smell research, scientists, artists, historians and cultural heritage specialists are coming together to work on what is perhaps the trickiest sense to preserve. Some are working on trying to conserve the smells of our times — especially those which may not exist in a few decades. Others, like Verbeek, who has a doctorate in the history of art, are working on reviving and reconstructing some of the lost scents.
These are some of the areas that Odeuropa, an international research consortium on olfactory heritage that was awarded a 2.8 million euro grant, is focused on studying. Inger Leemans, a cultural heritage professor, said, "We're losing them fast, of course, because time never stops, but … how do you bring the past to the nose?"
History is rife with smells that we will never be able to reclaim. Despite the detailed efforts of Verbeek, we'll never really know what the Battle of Waterloo smelled like. Or London in the Middle Ages or New York in the 1930s. We may not even be able to recapture the smells of our childhoods, characterized by things long gone.
Many scents that are vanishing include mothballs, burning piles of autumn leaves, typewriter ribbons And unlike color or music, smell isn't broken as easily into universally accepted components. Although technology has made it easier to isolate the chemical compounds of a smell, odors are also highly context dependent.