Wine of the week: 2012 Ontanon Viticultura Ecologica Rioja

Spain in general and Rioja in particular have a plethora of wineries that have been in the same family for decades, if not centuries. That helps keep costs down and spawns bargains such as the 2012 Ontañon Viticultura Ecologica Rioja ($13). With a fresh, bright nose and flavors, this red gem does a fruit/dust dance on the palate en route to a clean, lively and lengthy finish. Until recently, the grapes were transported from high-elevation vineyards to the winery via mules, and you can almost taste the history in this wine. Try it with paella or sausages, as the Spaniards do, or with roasted fowl and root veggies.

Available at Rogers Wines & Spirits, Edina ­munis, 1010 Washington and Tonka Bottle Shop.

BILL WARD