Wine of the week: 2014 Talamonti ILauri Tavo Pinot Grigio

Contrary to conventional wisdom, really good Italian pinot grigio can be just as friendly to the billfold as it is to the palate. Exhibit A: The 2014 Talamonti ILauri Tavo Pinot Grigio ($12), a bottle of perfect ripeness that finds a truly happy medium, not too sweet and not too tart. The nose offers up lovely florals and pure fruit, and there are gobs of fresh stone fruit and apple flavors on the palate. The spot-on, mouthwatering acidity and refreshing finish will bring you back for more. Richer seafood dishes and pasta sauces make for great pairings, since the laserlike briskness cuts through the heavier food. And this is a nacho wine if ever there was one.