In this age of health and wellness, of vegan butchers and thigh-hugging athleisure, where does a place like Sugar Factory belong?
The national chain — which originated in Las Vegas and became a celebrity magnet by asking stars to collaborate on designer lollipop sticks — has arrived at the Mall of America. And there's no better home for its supersized sweets than our supersized mall.
When the only fresh thing in sight is a banana that has been covered in sugar and brûléed with a blowtorch, when a chef asks someone for cherries to top a sundae and is handed two pieces of gummy fruit, when a burger served between two doughnuts comes with a grilled cheese where the lettuce should go, you might as well leave all your resolutions behind at Lululemon.
Welcome to a Sugar Factory edition of Outta Control, the Star Tribune's series featuring over-the-top foods in the Twin Cities. Watch past videos of a nearly 2-foot-long quesadilla and a deep-fried burger at startribune.com/outtacontrol.
The restaurant on the third floor of the mall is dripping with crystal chandeliers, mirrors, roses, neon lights spelling out "Beautiful," and a row of televisions that light up a neighboring candy store with flickering images of various Kardashian-Jenners posing behind (but not eating) an ice cream sundae the size of an infant. There is a constant line of customers waiting to get in.
"The wow factor is what we strive for," said Connie Scott, general manager of the MOA location. "For Wisconsin and Minnesota, you have pretty much everything. We're bringing something different, something a little sweet, something over-the-top, something for the whole family."
Assistant corporate pastry chef Adriana Chavarria worked in fine dining before joining the company a year ago. The food she gets to make at Sugar Factory, she says, is more fun.
"It's definitely something that you want to eat and nothing you've eaten before," she said. "Panna Cotta? Played out. But who's going to put a cheeseburger on top of a milkshake?"