A first look at St. Paul's Em Quê Viêt, the newest addition to the restaurant's family

Pink wisteria tumbles off the awning shadowing the white brick building at Em Quê Viêt in St. Paul. On a summer evening, the faux pink flowers fan a line of hungry customers either waiting for a table or for takeout to be delivered to the special window facing the sidewalk. Judging by the lines forming several nights a week, the new Vietnamese eatery is a hit.

Running the restaurant, and circling the dining room checking on customers, are Maria Nguyen and Brianna Le, who own Em Quê Viêt with Lauren Le. "Em" is the Vietnamese word for little brother or sister, and this eatery, a year in the making, is part of the Quê Viêt family of restaurants, which they say is Minnesota's longest-running Vietnamese restaurant.

Quê Viêt first opened in 1980 and has been operating its Brooklyn Center location since 1987. Unique to Em Quê Viêt will be more traditional Vietnamese dishes, like bánh xèo; others take creative, modern liberties on the classics.

"When my mother-in-law opened Quê Viêt, I think she served American breakfast," said Nguyen. The prevalence of Vietnamese cuisine in Minnesota has come a long way.

Location: 1332 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-330-4363, emqueviet.com. Open Sun-Thu. 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. and 4-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-11 p.m.

The food: The first thing to arrive at almost every table are the crackling rice paper-wrapped meaty egg rolls ($10). It wouldn't be a Quê Viêt experience without them. They materialize in seconds; the kitchen is quick to keep up with orders.

The menu is a tidy mix of dishes that longtime customers will expect from the other two Quê Viêts, like chow mein ($13-$15), egg fu young ($13-$14) and chicken almond ding ($14), but this restaurant also has its own clear identity with a selection of more traditional Vietnamese fare. There's a selection of pho and buns. Specialties include a crispy bánh xèo packed with bean sprouts, bacon and little shrimp served with herbs, lettuce and nuoc cham ($18). A salad is mixed with shrimp and herbs tucked into hearty banana flower ($15). Hot and spicy chicken ($15) is made from boneless, skinless chicken thighs tossed in a rich soy-colored sauce that delivers on the promised spice. Many of the items are gluten-free, including the egg rolls (although the fryer isn't dedicated GF).

The desserts ($9) elevate any dinner into an occasion with options like a ginger crème brûlée or the bánh bông lan, a vanilla-flavored chiffon cake topped with almond cookie crumbles and a condensed milk crème anglaise. Like the family's Minneapolis location (2211 NE. Johnson St., quevietmn.com), there's a bakery shelf filled with a few sweet treats ready to be carried out.

The drinks: There is a full bar and a few bar seats available. Cocktails are imaginative and lean into classic Vietnamese flavors and ingredients for inspiration. An espresso martini is made with Vietnamese coffee ($16) and a martini is flavored with lychee, hibiscus and clementine ($16). Nonalcoholic drinks ($8) are given just as much care, with light and complex flavors. Those are a nice treat on the back patio, where there isn't yet a liquor license.

The vibe: The space, a former used-book store, has been entirely transformed. But it's light and bright with blossoms adorning the walls of the small dining room and dangling from the bar, lending a feminine, ethereal feeling to the dining experience. There aren't many seats inside, so during peak hours the tables are a bit cozy and the noise level can be boisterous. The secluded patio in back is shaded by canvas.

For those wanting to remain distanced, there is a takeout window at the front of the restaurant for walk-ups to grab an order without entering the building.