Belly up to the beer at the Minnesota State Fair

One hour into the Great Minnesota Get-Together and you're already hot, dusty and very, very thirsty.

For some, that means a visit to the shaved ice stand. For others, it's a cup of fresh apple cider. But for many veterans of the State Fair, the desperate need to wet your whistle has but a single option to save you from expiring right there on the sidewalk, between the Pronto Pup and French fry stands, a puddle of humanity in a sea of T-shirts.

Must have beer. Now.

Ah, yes. The near universal lifesaver of parched souls.

Well, you're in the right spot. There have never been more options for beer at the fair, where your choice can be old-school (think Grain Belt Premium), local or regional craft (such as Castle Danger Cream Ale and Fulton Sweet Child of Vine) or "novelty" beers (the likes of Big Wood Chocolate Chip Cookie beer, Coasters Beer Malt and Dill Pickle Beer).

Choices, choices, choices. Indeed, more than you can sample over 12 days, although there surely will be some who try.

At the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild exhibit alone — aptly named Land of 10,000 Beers — there will be 300 brews rotating through the duration of the fair and available in flights. More than 50,000 flights were sold last year.

Thank Dan Theisen, co-owner of the fair's Ball Park Cafe, as the one who introduced craft beer seven years ago to the sunburned masses. A couple of years later, he inspired mini-donut beer from Lift Bridge Brewery, which unleashed a new wave of creative license for brews exclusive to the fairgrounds.

"Beer follows the food trend at the fair," he said with a laugh.

So which to choose, sweet or sour, classic or whimsy?

Michael Agnew, beer columnist at the Star Tribune, has one bit of advice for those looking to cool off with a brew: "Definitely go with the lower alcohol beers, those in the 4 percent range."

Whatever the choice, watch the calendar. Last call is Labor Day.

Lee Svitak Dean • Twitter: @StribTaste