It’s possible we’re at the cusp of a new era, one where the fresh crop of restaurant burgers are just as diverse and interesting as the people who love them. After what feels like an eon of humble smash burgers dominating the dining landscape, it’s time for burgers with depth, swagger and a bunch of different sizes.
4 great new burgers to try in the Twin Cities this spring
Thick and spicy, thin and crispy, Juicy Lucy — even beefed-up beefy: These burger bites are next level.
The Minnesota Star Tribune
March 28, 2024 at 11:30AM
We rarely pass up a burger on a menu, and these are four that have risen to the top of our craving list with flavors borrowed from Jamaica, Thailand, Brazil and Japan. Grab a thick napkin and step right this way.
Pão Burger at Hola Arepa
Share this one with your gluten-free friends, because this bun, so toasty and cheesy in flavor, just happens to be gluten-free. Pão de queijo is a popular Brazilian puffy cheesy bread made from tapioca flour that’s usually served as a tasty little snack. Here it houses a thin burger cooked to order and topped with herbaceous chimichurri, pickles, American cheese, lettuce and a little green onion aioli. The burger is part of a new happy hour menu that executive chef/owner Christina Nguyen put together with Janene Holig, the new culinary director for both Hola Arepa and Hai Hai. The two are masterminds when it comes to building big flavor, and this burger is no exception. All the supporting ingredients set the stage for the juicy beef, enhancing its flavor and texture.
Cost: $10.
What about fries? This is a bargain burger that’s sans fries, but crispy yuca fries are on the menu for another $6. It’s even better paired with the $6 chips and salsa flight.
When: Its limited availability makes the fleeting joy of this burger all the better. Get it during happy hour from 4-5:30 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 4:30-close Sun.
Where: 3501 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., 612-345-5583, holaarepa.com
Karai burger at TokiDoki Burger
When Matthew Kazama opened his first ramen restaurant in 2015, he was flooded with fans eager to warm their hands on bowls of his noodle soup. With his second restaurant, just a few steps away, he was hoping to take the opening a bit easier. But, the time has come for everyone to know about these burgers. The first one to order is the Karai burger, a spicy number built around a thicker beef patty — a welcome reprieve from years of skinny burgers dominating menus. Cooked medium, the beef is surrounded by a Thai chile and Japanese Karai sauce with bacon, cheddar cheese, a handful of shredded lettuce and tangy-sweet pickled carrots. The whole business is served on a buttered, toasted brioche bun, although gluten-free buns are available by special request. The heat from the burger builds with each bite into a pleasant warmth that will bring a flush to your cheeks.
Cost: $15.
What about fries? This burger comes with skinny, crispy fries.
When: 5-9 p.m. Tue.-Thu., 2:30-10 p.m. Fri.-Sun., when the restaurant switches over from its brunch menu.
Where: 3406 Nicollet Av. S. , Mpls., 612-315-4228, tokidokiburger.com
Oxtail sliders at Klassics Kitchen + Cocktails
Brittney and Gerard Klass’ new downtown Minneapolis restaurant is filled with compelling reasons to stop by for lunch, a post-work beverage, a pre-event quick snack or special date-night dinner. However, what we’re making a beeline for at burger time are these three unassuming morsels that pack a wallop of rich flavor. Chef Gerard said when their Soul Bowl restaurant was open in Richfield, he would dip into a nearby Caribbean grocery store, Galaxy Foods, and load up on groceries. Oxtail stew is a popular Jamaican comfort food, and thinking on all that got him wondering: Could he get all that concentrated meaty flavor into a burger? In short, yes. He did it times three with these mini burgers topped with an oxtail gravy, bringing all that slow-simmered goodness into every craggy beef crevice. Each one is topped with a slice of manchego cheese, peppers, mushrooms and onions.
Cost: $18.
When: The oxtail sliders are on the menu all day from lunch through dinner.
What about fries? These come with a little container of fries that are more like crispy potato scoops.
Where: 428 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-353-5938, klassicsmn.com
Chapli burger at Mandalay Kitchen
This is the ultimate taste of Minneapolis meets St. Paul’s Little Mekong district, and the result is a Southeast Asian-flavored juicy Lucy.
Mandalay Kitchen opened with a menu packed with Knyaw, Burmese and Thai flavors. And the Chapli patty recalls owner Chris Tunbaw’s childhood memories of his mother’s cooking.
The ground beef is formed around a flavor bomb built from Japanese mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, yogurt and avocado. Tearing into it brings a mouthful of oozy American cheese that mingles with the mouth-warming spices. Like all great Lucys, this one is impossible to share because once diving in, there’s no putting this burger down. Each bite brings a different flavor combination of aromatics, fresh acidity and a savory rush.
Cost: $14.95.
What about fries? It comes with lightly battered skinny fries.
When: Available for lunch through dinner Fri.-Sun. only.
Where: 383 W. University Av., St. Paul, 651-219-5887, mandalaykitchenstp.com
Correction: In a previous version of this story, Janene Holig's title was incorrect. She is the culinary director.
Lefse-wrapped Swedish wontons, a soothing bowl of rice porridge and a gravy-laden commercial filled our week with comfort and warmth.
