City Center today is downtown Minneapolis’ biggest mistake. But remember the block’s good old days?

It once featured architecturally diverse buildings, distinguished stores and grand theaters and hotels.

The Minnesota Star Tribune
March 1, 2025 at 2:06PM
The bunker-like design of City Center has blighted Nicollet Mall for decades. (James Lileks)

There’s talk of a new basketball arena for the Timberwolves and Lynx, and that immediately raises the question, why?

People who pay little attention to these matters might wonder why the Target Center, which is the NBA’s second oldest venue, needs replacing. Didn’t it get a $140 million face-lift that was completed only in 2017? And didn’t that bring additions of a skyway from Ramp A and a two-story atrium? Another stadium? Again?

But then when the idea that a new stadium could be built on the site of the City Center complex was floated by the website Axios, it ignited an interest.

People who have walked past the blank, dull bunker walls of the complex, made up of the 51-story 33 South Sixth Street tower, a Marriott hotel and three-level interior court with retail, for decades might offer to start hacking down the downtown Minneapolis structure with a pickax. It’s a dun-colored hunk, inert and depressing, and has been an aesthetic black hole on the mall since it was built in 1983.

Older readers may recall what the block was like before City Center. It was everything we supposedly want a city block to be. Dense, but not overwhelming. Architecturally diverse, but still consistent within the styles of prewar commercial design. A block where a stolid 1910s office space could coexist with a sleek 1930s streamlined storefront, and a spindly tower bedecked with ornamental frosting could be friends with a broad, tall hotel. Here’s a look at the City Center’s four fine faces:

On the Nicollet side, there were variety stores like W.T. Grant Co., whose windows were jammed with dishes, electronics, card tables, vases and bath towels.

Star Tribune file photo
Nicollet Avenue between 6th and 7th Streets, a bustling retail scene in 1960.Two old retail rivals: W. T. Grant, and S. S. Kresge.
Star Tribune file photo In the 1960s, Nicollet Avenue between 6th and 7th streets was a bustling retail scene. Two chief retail rivals: W. T. Grant Co. and S. S. Kresge Co. sat next to each other. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

On the Hennepin side, the complex housed a shoe store, a restaurant where tired shoppers could get a jolt of java at the counter, a Chinese restaurant and a movie theater with a marquee blaring the word “Gopher.” The name was chosen by a contest, and came from the University of Minnesota’s Golden Gophers football team.

HENN3: Hennepin Av. between 6th Street and 7th Street 1960: Gopher Theatre. The movie theater’s roots reached to 1910, when it was the Grand Theater. In 1938 it was renovated (by architects Liebenberg and Kaplan, of Uptown, Suburban World and Varsity theaters fame) and renamed, and demolished in 1981. That’s the 105-year-old Plymouth Building in the background. ORG XMIT: MIN1601191405270055
The Gopher Theatre's roots can be traced back to 1911, when it was the Grand Theater. In 1938, it was renovated and renamed to Gopher Theatre, which was demolished in 1981. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

On the 7th Street side, there were more movie theaters, including the Century Theatre. It morphed into the Century Cinerama in the mid-1950s, becoming the midcentury version of an Imax theater.

Mineapolis Star file photo, Roy Swan 3/1960 Century Theater on 7th street between Hennepin and Nicollet Avenues
The Century Theatre came into being in 1929 on 7th Street between Hennepin and Nicollet avenues. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

There was also the old Strand Theater. It was converted in 1930 to the fabled Forum Cafeteria, a riot of late Art Deco interior design where you could have a humble slice of apple pie in a mirrored wonderland straight out of a Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire movie set.

Forum Cafeteria
The Forum Cafeteria opened at the refurbished Strand Theater in 1930 and closed in 1975. (Dml -/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

On the 6th Street side, one of the great old hotels was the Dyckman. When it opened in 1910, it featured a lobby wall made of marble, large murals, gilded ceilings with mosaic designs and a fancy wrought-iron marquee. The impressive structure with a famous Parisian-style restaurant was the place for countless anniversary dinners where Mom and Dad could dress up for a fancy night downtown.

The ordinary, glorious urbanity of the block was unparalleled. People still reminisce about Block E, the part of Hennepin Avenue between 6th and 7th streets. It had a tawdry vibe by the time the wrecking balls swung. The City Center block was different. We wouldn’t let it go today. We would regard its demolition as urban murder.

Dyckman Hotel lobby, Minneapolis, December 1933
Dyckman Hotel lobby, Minneapolis, December 1933 (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

At the time of its destruction, of course, mauling a core block was progress. Cities tried to jump-start downtown vitality with indoor malls, with mega-projects that had office towers, a hotel and an anchor department store.

City Center opened strong, and for a while it hummed and buzzed. But as with Gaviidae Common across the street, and Gaviidae Common II between 5th and 6th streets on Nicollet Mall, and the Conservatory between 8th and 9th streets, and the Block E mall, it staggered, sagged, emptied and failed.

Its loss today would mean nothing to anyone.

The sticking point to this plan might be that the office tower 33 South Sixth, which originally was at 52 stories, would seem to require incorporation.

33 South Sixth towered impassively over 6th Street just west of Nicollet Mall on Tuesday.
33 South Sixth, once known as the International Multifoods Tower, is one of the Minneapolis' tallest buildings and it includes the City Center retail complex. (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

But it is such an unimaginative dullard that its omission from the skyline would not be missed in the slightest. It would be too much to ask, but if the proposal for the City Center site stripped the building down to its frame and adorned the girders with neon, signage and programmable LEDs, it would provide more interest and excitement in a single night than it has provided in its 42 years of existence.

An arena on the block would not solve the day-to-day problems of the street, and would only provide vitality on game days. But it would be an audacious rethinking of the site, and transfer some of the pre- and post-game energy to the moribund Nicollet Mall. The block will never be what it once was.

Razing City Center, however, and filling the block with a structure that would truly be a downtown destination is better than what we have today.

about the writer

about the writer

James Lileks

Columnist

James Lileks is a Star Tribune columnist.

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