15 comforting soups from around the globe at Twin Cities area restaurants

Comfort comes in many languages.

February 22, 2023 at 11:00AM
Sunshine-colored rice porridge with an array of mix-ins at the new Kalsada in St. Paul. (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

In every culture there's a bowl of comfort, usually simmered by a grandmother, that is at the ready when the threat of illness strikes. From congee and matzo ball to pozole and chicken wild rice, the long-stewed concoctions are steeped with love and care, soothing everything from a cold to a broken heart.

Soups aren't just served out of tradition, or simply because they're yummy (although they are). There is science to back up why you should slurp it when you're sick: The salty broth restores electrolytes, the warmth can clear nasal passages and protein gives the immune system a little boost.

While these soups don't come with the aid of a granny (or abuelita or bubbe), they are big bowls of rich warmth — each bite packed with flavor and care — that can be sourced from Twin Cities restaurants.

Arroz Caldo at Kalsada

Kalsada serves their take on Filipino arroz caldo ($13): A downright hot bowl brims with soft-cooked rice porridge that's the color of the sun we've been missing for so long. Garnished with crispy bits of fried garlic, the porridge also comes with a plate of mixing buddies. Nubs of fried chicken add texture and a little saltiness, Fresno chiles amp up the spice and pea shoots add a lovely green crunch. However, it's the egg that really takes this dish over the top. Expertly soft-boiled, it opens to spill just a little bit into the golden mixture. The arroz caldo is available on Saturdays and Sundays starting at 8 a.m.

1668 Selby Av., St. Paul, 651-340-0496, kalsada-stpaul.com

Matzo ball soup at Cecil's

One of the best things about the matzo ball soup at Cecil's ($7.50) is the chicken broth: cooked for hours until all the veggies and bones have relinquished their flavors and nutrients. Little sunny dots of rendered chicken fat loll along the surface. Bowls of this soup are served with a massive sphere of tender, poached matzo and large hunks of carrot and celery bobbing up and down along with juicy pieces of chicken. For those of us not lucky enough to have a bubbe close by when the sniffles show up, this soup is the next best thing.

651 S. Cleveland Av., St. Paul, 651-698-0334, cecilsdeli.com

The red curry broth-based khao poon at Yia Vang's Slurp pop-up.
Layers of spices and herbs make this rich curry broth soup a salve for cold days. (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Khao poon at Slurp

Chef Yia Vang shared the first tastes of his version of the brothy khao poon in his early pop-up days. Now it's readily available at his current Uptown pop-up noodle shop, Slurp. Giant bowls are filled with a sea of rice noodles, nubs of pleasantly chewy ground chicken, snappy cabbage and a pile of fresh herbs ($18). With each sip the spice level from the broth builds to a pleasing inside-out furnace level of coziness. Don't worry if there's no room at the tables inside, this bowl travels well. Go ahead and grab one, buckle it up in the passenger seat and haul it home.

901 W. Lake St., Mpls., hilltribemn.com

Pozole de Pollo at Salsa á la Salsa

The rich, red liquid inside the cup is an alluring promise of the velvety sumptuousness of its pozole. The bobbing white hominy is a fun hunt-and-slurp game to play while alternately making sure the roof of your mouth doesn't burn from greedily inhaling each spoonful too quickly. With a bright citrusy spritz of lime juice and the snappy, grassy green of cilantro, each bite hits all the flavor receptors full force ($6 cup, $12 for a bowl and two tostadas).

920 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-872-4140, salsaalasalsa.com

Boat noodle soup at Friends Cafe
The warm Burmese spices and luxe broth inside this broth are divine. (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Boat Noodle Soup at Friends Cafe

Step into this nondescript strip-mall restaurant for a massive bowl of boat noodle soup ($12.99). The rich, silken broth is made from long-stewed beef bones, warm Burmese spices such as five spice and cinnamon, and salty dark soy sauce with just a hint of sweetness for balance. Basking in the glistening broth are slow-cooked beef slices and beef meatballs — all flecked with chopped coriander. On the side are bean sprouts, purple basil and a lime wedge — much like how pho is served. Add some crispy chiles soaked in oil to crank up the heat in a way that accentuates the nuances of the broth's flavor.

1711 Rice St., Roseville, 651-487-7696, bit.ly/4138xpy

Karamiso Ramen at Ramen Kazama

Greedily slurping up a tangle of ramen noodles is a mood booster even during the best of times. But, if there's a scratchy throat or stuffy head, the karamiso ramen ($15.75) is a flavorful shot of betterment. Deeply flavorful and creamy textured pork broth mingles with savory miso, and each spoonful delivers roundhouse kick of red chile heat that opens up the nasal passages. Combined with the noodles, this is a deeply satisfying bowl. Chef Matthew Kazama's broth elixirs are available at the original Nicollet Avenue location or on Como Avenue, not too far from the University of Minnesota.

3400 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., and 1510 Como Av. SE, Mpls., 612-353-6160, ramenkazama.com

Gumbo at Mr. Paul's Po' Boys and Jams

Many of the best soups are born from not having much on hand. Humble bits of this and that are tossed into a pot with water and time, and the end result often becomes the focus of nostalgia and nourishment during dark days. That's origin of Louisiana's gumbo. A rich mix of cultures and people bring this pot together and the kind offered at Edina's Mr. Paul's ($9) is a fine ode to this Cajun classic. Rich, dark roux provides the backbone while all those smoky meaty bits meld together, served over tender white rice with just enough cayenne kick to make your nose run. Grab it during the daytime hours when this shop is open.

3917 Market St., Edina, 612-259-8614, mrpaulssupperclub.com

Borscht is a Moscow on the Hill staple. (Tom Wallace, Star Tribune file/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Borscht at Moscow on the Hill

The hospitable Moscow on the Hill, in St. Paul's Cathedral Hill neighborhood, knows how to bring cold-weather coziness inside. The classic borscht ($4.95-$6.95) is a good order on a sunny day, but somehow tastes even more exquisite on a dark and snowy evening. Tart cabbage and vibrant beets mingle with dill, topped with a plush dollop of sour cream.

371 Selby Av., St. Paul, 651-291-1236, moscowonthehill.com

Lentil soup at Filfillah Mediterranean Grill

Central Avenue is one of the metro's great food corridors. When in search of steamy comforts, a stop at Filfillah is a must. Deeply nourishing, this vegan soup ($7.99) is a sumptuous blend of vegetables and lentils made aromatic with Mediterranean spices. Add in a round of Turkish bread for $1.25 to fill out the meal.

4301 Central Av. NE., Columbia Heights, 763-781-2222, filfillahmn.com

There are so many delicious temptations on the Ngon menu, but the pho remains irresistible. (Tom Wallace, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Pho at Ngon Bistro

There are myriad reasons to visit Ngon Bistro year-round. The bar serves an intriguing mix of cocktails, head-bopping music plays softly in the background, and in the summer there's a great patio. But there's one mandatory order, no matter the season: Someone at the table has to get the pho ($15). The broth is made from grass-fed beef and marrow bones that are simmered with toasty spices until all that is left is a rich and wonderful (and light and gorgeous) broth. Served with rice noodles, shaved thin onions, herbs and a tray of mix-ins for customizing, it's a giant bowl of care and comfort.

799 W. University Av., St. Paul, 651-222-3301, ngonbistro.com

Chicken Ginger Congee at IndoChin

The soothing in this bowl comes from its simplicity: White rice is cooked until it's starchy, swollen and tender, served with poached, pulled chicken with a heap of fresh ginger on top. This is the ideal meal for when the stomach wants something gentle and calm ($14). And if you're not feeling up to leaving the house, third-party delivery is available, too.

1702 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-690-2728 indochingrandave.squarespace.com

Chicken wild rice soup at 328 Grill

Chicken wild rice soup is canon in Minnesota, a creamy, decadent dish emblematic of our hearty, steadfast stock. While many fond memories are built around this dish, the kitchen at the American Legion in St. Paul Park is serving a soup with nutty wild rice mingling with a rich broth blended with just enough cream to make it decadent. If a bowl ($5) isn't enough, try it served over cheese curds and tots in the Minnesota Poutine ($11).

328 Broadway, St. Paul Park, 651-459-8016, 328grill.com

A simple cup of humble joy. (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Garlic Chicken Bone Broth at Foxy Falafel

The backbone of so many of these soups is a humble chicken stock, the result from hours of cooking bones, water and aromatics. At Foxy Falafel, an adorable fast-casual restaurant on Raymond Avenue in St. Paul, it's served simply on its own ($5), flush with flavor and fortifying goods. On cold days, or when the tummy is feeling unsteady, it's wonderful to drink more like a tea than eat with a spoon, soothing everything from a heavy head down to chilly toes.

791 Raymond Av., St. Paul, 651-888-2255, foxyfalafel.com

Chongqing Spicy Noodle Soup at Master Noodle

Fiery red broth coats the handmade noodles Master Noodle has staked a reputation on inside each brimming bowl of the Chongqing spicy noodle soup ($12.95). Swimming in that spicy cauldron are baby bok choy, chopped nuts and ground meat. Each slurp is a dance with chili, oil and those substantive noodles. It's the perfect antidote to an arctic freeze or the cold, damp days of late winter.

1337 W. University Av., St. Paul, 651-369-6688, magicnoodleusa.com

Tom Kha at Coconut Thai

Calming the treacherous seas of a queasy stomach, the ginger- and lemongrass-infused broth of an excellent bowl of tom kha soup can work wonders. Coconut Thai's version ($13-$25) strikes that perfect balance between the creaminess of the coconut milk and the rehydrating broth with a lively zing of citrus. Mixed in with earthy mushrooms and snappy vegetables and a choice of protein, it's available at both the Edina and St. Paul locations.

720 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-348-7250; 3948 W. 50th St., Edina, 952-288-2888; coconutthaimn.com

Correction: A previous version of this story had the incorrect name for the soup at Coconut Thai.
about the writer

about the writer

Joy Summers

Food and Drink Reporter

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Minnesota Star Tribune in 2021.

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