Tamarindo Tamarindo is like Cancun, Acapulco or any one of dozens of tropical destinations that started out as nothing more than a village on a pretty beach.
Unlike Cancun or Acapulco, there's still a fight going on over its soul. Should Tamarindo, a town of about 2,000 people, become a major resort destination or try to retain its small-town charm? Rapid condo development has outpaced infrastructure, leading to wastewater contamination that affects Tamarindo's most important asset for tourism: its broad, beautiful beach. The Tamarindo News (tamarindonews.com) and the Beach Times (www.thebeachtimes.com) cover the continuing story; the letters to the editor in both papers feature the arguments of locals over what to do. The choices aren't easy.
For tourists, Tamarindo remains an appealing destination, especially for surfers and sun worshipers, turtle fans and bird watchers. You can help preserve the nature of the area by choosing small, locally owned hotels and bed-and-breakfasts and not staying at the big hotels (they're not as interesting or even necessarily as comfortable, as I found out in Tamarindo).
Ethical travel
To learn more about ethical tourism, download the United Nations' tips for responsible travelers at www.world-tourism.org/code_ethics/eng/responsible.htm and check out www.ethicaltraveler.org.
Where to stay
Were I to do it over, I'd stay at Cabinas Marielos (www. cabinasmarieloscr.com), a comfortable, affordable hotel with a shared kitchen and a beautiful garden; it's right across the street from the beach. Doubles are about $35 a night with air conditioning and $25 a night without it.
Tours