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Diner's Journal: In praise of the BLT at 3 Twin Cities restaurants (and a food truck)

August 8, 2015 at 7:29PM
Fresh tomatoes from the Loon Organics stand at Mill City Farmers Market.
Fresh tomatoes from the Loon Organics stand at Mill City Farmers Market. (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Tomato season has finally arrived. Hurrah! Celebrate with the world's best sandwich, the BLT.

Birchwood Cafe chef Marshall Paulson makes the BLT a prime summertime event. The premium bacon (from Fischer Farms in Waseca, Minn.), heirloom tomatoes and fresh greens are more than enough to impress, but he doesn't stop there, adding a lively sunflower-seed pesto and a spiced-up coulis composed with another summer joy, sweet corn. All atop barley- and molasses-fortified bread, toasted and liberally buttered. Price: $14.

3311 E. 25th St., Mpls., 612-722-4474, birchwoodcafe.com

The slider-style BLTs that the Moral Omnivore pumps out of its popular food truck are quickly developing hall-of-fame status. And why not? Panko-coated deep-fried tomato slices boast all kinds of crispy panache. Cabbage slaw, tossed in a creamy yogurt dressing, stands in for lettuce and mayo, and bacon (sublime heirloom Berkshire pork from Iowa's Berkwood Farms) couldn't be better. Price: $9 for a pair of sliders, or $8 without bacon, which seems somewhat unthinkable.

themoralomnivore.com, @moral_omnivore

At Sandcastle, chef/co-owner Doug Flicker goes BLT old school: toasted white bread, an honest-to-goodness stack of first-rate bacon (from Thielen Meats in Pierz, Minn.), flavorful tomatoes, crispy iceberg lettuce and plenty of mayonnaise and black pepper, all served with a gorgeous side of Lake Nokomis views. Truly, bliss. Price: $7.50.

4955 W. Lake Nokomis Pkwy., Mpls., 612-722-5550, sandcastlempls.com

It's hard to single out a favorite ingredient in the BLT at Yum! Kitchen and Bakery, because they're all so good: colorful, locally raised heirloom tomatoes. Smoky, thick-cut bacon (from Nueske's, the pride of Wittenberg, Wis.). A punchy garlic aioli. A chewy house-baked ciabatta roll. The ridiculously addictive (and made on the premises) potato chips are the proverbial icing on the cake. Price: $9.25.

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4000 Minnetonka Blvd., St. Louis Park, 952-922-4000, yumkitchen.com

RICK NELSON

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