Frittata is the answer to laid-back summer dinners

For those looking for a no-fuss, no-stress meal that’s also quick, inexpensive, versatile and delicious, the humble frittata is the answer.

Eggs mixed with dairy can result in any number of dishes, from a silky, delicate flan to a firm, sturdy omelet. If the ratio is right, though, you can land somewhere in the middle — in the land of frittatas.

The Italian frittata, when well-made, is a thing of beauty that is so easy to create. It can be done in minutes and is a terrific vehicle for an endless variety of leftovers or odds and ends that collect in your fridge after a week of piecing together meals.

Keeping in mind a few important rules of the road can help ensure a moist, flavorful and delicious frittata.

The ratio of dairy to egg is key. A half-cup of dairy to a dozen eggs seems to be the sweet spot, in terms of keeping the eggs tender without making them too loose. You can certainly halve the recipe and use a smaller skillet, but I like frittata leftovers, so I’m happy to make mine bigger.

It’s also important to cook anything you plan on putting inside your frittata. For instance, in this week’s Summer Squash, Goat Cheese and Potato Frittata, I cook both the potatoes and the summer squash before adding the eggs. If I didn’t, the potatoes would never be adequately cooked in the short time the frittata cooks, and the squash would release too much liquid into the mix, watering down the eggs.

Draping frittata slices with a sauce is also a welcome addition. This week I’m using fresh cherry tomatoes, simply tossed with a little balsamic vinegar, olive oil and fresh basil. Quick and easy, the sauce adds brightness and acidity to the dish. Marinara sauce, yogurt sauce or pesto are other good options.

Lastly, don’t overcook it. You want the sides to be set and the middle to have just a hint of a jiggle. Eggs can tighten and toughen when overdone, and you’re looking for a texture that tilts toward the custardy side without being too soft.

I spent time in Spain last year and sampled many versions of their hugely popular tortilla Española or tortilla de patatas, which is very similar to a potato frittata. They eat the dish on its own, with chunks of bread on the side to sop up the liquidy centers (yes, they are often very loose inside) or as the filling for a simple sandwich, tucked inside a crusty loaf of bread. I encourage you to try the latter with any leftovers, as they make a wonderful breakfast sandwich.

I like to serve my frittata with a crisp green salad and a glass of dry white wine for a lovely, light but satisfying summer dinner.

Serves 6.

A quick, fresh cherry tomato sauce, spooned over a simple, meatless (but hearty) frittata is the perfect choice for brunch, lunch or dinner. From Meredith Deeds.

• 12 large eggs

• 1/2 c. sour cream

• 1 1/2 tsp. table salt, divided

• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

• 16 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 4 tbsp. chopped fresh basil, divided

• 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar

• 5 small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into 1/8-in. slices

• 2 medium summer squash or zucchini, shredded (about 3 c.)

• 3 oz. goat cheese, crumbled (¾ c.)

Directions

Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Whisk eggs, sour cream, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper together in bowl; set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine cherry tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, 2 tablespoons basil, vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Stir to combine and set aside.

Add potatoes, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons oil to a 12-inch, oven-safe, nonstick skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat until potatoes begin to brown, about 7 to 9 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer potatoes to a plate.

Add squash and remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the same skillet and cook, stirring, until squash is tender and any excess liquid has evaporated, about 5 to 8 minutes. Return potatoes to the pan. Stir in egg mixture and sprinkle evenly with goat cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons basil. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until frittata is set around the edges and just slightly jiggly in center, about 12 to 14 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes. Slide frittata onto platter, cut into wedges, and serve with cherry tomato sauce.

Meredith Deeds is a cookbook author and food writer from Edina. Reach her at meredithdeeds@gmail.com. Follow her on Instagram ­at @meredithdeeds.