For many moons, the world's only sparkling wine was Champagne. And among cork-dork circles in France (and elsewhere) who will "stoop" to nothing less, that's still the case.
From Armenia to South Africa, travel the world through sparkling wines
Prosecco from Italy and Cava from Spain have become popular, but here are a dozen worthy offerings from lesser-known regions.
By Bill Ward
December 23, 2020 at 4:54PM
But these days, bubble-licious wines are crafted around the globe, and most have friendlier prices — and similar quality — than bottles from the Champagne region.
Prosecco from Italy and Cava from Spain have become particularly popular, but here are a dozen worthy offerings from lesser-known regions:
Armenia: Yes, Armenia. My first vinous foray into this former Soviet republic was the zippy, zingy Keush Origins Méthode Traditionnelle Brut, which showcases more apple flavors (green and yellow) than sparklers' usual citrus, yeasty notes. It's made with the indigenous grapes voskehat and khatouni, which are grown at more than 6,000 feet above sea level. $21; available at 1010 Washington, Thomas, Zipp's, Stinson and others.
Australia: With pinot noir as its base, it's no surprise that the Jansz Tasmania Premium Rosé is redolent of strawberry on the nose and initial palate before it turns richer and creamier on the mid-palate and the more than ample finish. $20; available at Hennepin Lake, MGM (Minneapolis, Minnetonka), Top Ten (Vadnais Heights, St. Louis Park, Plymouth), France 44 and others.
Austria: One would be hard-pressed to find a better bottle of pink bubbles from Champagne than the Brundlmayer Brut Rosé. The combination of pinot with indigenous grapes zweigelt and St. Laurent provides a clean but stout experience, with a weighty finish. $55; available at North Loop, Solo Vino and Haskell's (Minnetonka).
Baja California: Down Mexico way, at least in the cooler coastal climate of Baja, a vibrant wine scene is emerging. The L.A. Cetto Brut is smooth, lively and very tasty, a great match for most dishes from south (or north) of the border. $17; available at Bacchus, Saint Anthony Village, Centro (to-go), Zipp's and others.
England: Even with climate change, the British Isles are a long way from being a cabernet hub. But the grapes that spawn great sparkling wines (chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier) now thrive there. Exhibit A: The Hush Heath Estate Balfour 1503 has gorgeous fruit, lovely balance and a seriously refreshing finish. $45; available at Solo Vino and North Loop.
France (outside of Champagne): It's always a good sign when the first word in my tasting notes is "yummy." The Pierre Sparr Cremant D'Alsace Brut Rosé assessment continued with "swell fruit, swell acidity, fun and fascinating." A serious bargain. $26; available at McDonald's, Apple Valley (Essex Av.), Surdyk's and others.
Germany: Speaking of fun, no better word applies to this pair of wines from Fritz Müller, the Perlwein Rosa Trocken and Perlwein Müller-Thurgau Trocken. Fresh as a spring breeze, these are dynamic but also boast plenty of depth and length. Both $19; available at South Lyndale, Top Ten, Lakeside, Wine Republic, Perrier (Grand Av.) and others.
Italy (outside of prosecco): More than a few grape nuts consider the Franciacortas from the subregion of Brescia in Lombardy a contender with Champagne for top sparkling honors. A fabulous introduction is the Corte Aura Pas Dosé Franciacorta, with firm and focused fresh fruit (citrus, peach) and a bone-dry finish — pas dosé means no added sugar — that cries out for food. $24, available at North Loop, Wine Thief and Solo Vino.
New Mexico: Regular readers tired of my lauding the lively, crowd-pleasing Gruet Brut Blanc de Noirs ($17) should check out the winery's equally stellar brut or rosé. $17, available at Dolce Vita, Edina, Elevated, First Grand, Jerry's (Woodbury), Lake Wine & Spirits, Whole Foods (Minneapolis and Maple Grove) and others.
New York: Looking to make mimosas, bellinis or other cocktails? Check out the Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blanc from the Finger Lakes pioneer, which is so crisp and easy-drinking you might find it wasteful to use in a mixed drink. $30; available at the Vine Shop, Hum's, Stinson and others.
Oregon: Sokol Blosser has been making stupendous white blends, still and sparkling, for years. The latest iteration, the Bluebird Cuvée, takes the winery's trademark fruit-cocktail deliciousness and brisk texture to another level. The wine's name salutes the 15 bird houses on the vineyard's organically farmed property. $28; available at Hy-Vee (Plymouth, Brooklyn Park), Haskell's (Excelsior), McDonald's, West Side (Waite Park), Apollo (Rochester) and others.
South Africa: The Graham Beck Brut is a true crowd-pleaser, but in the absence of social gatherings, its creamy but tingly mouthfeel and tasty blend of pinot noir and chardonnay is well worth enjoying with a smaller crew. $23; available at Blue Max, Total (Roseville, Bloomington, Maple Grove), Cotroneo, Excelsior Village, Liquor Barrel (Mendota) and others.
Bill Ward writes at decant-this.com. Follow him on Twitter: @billward4.•
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Bill Ward
The 23rd installment of the beer fest will take place Oct. 12 at Boom Island Park in Minneapolis.
