Two decades ago, when designer Stephen Burks was beginning what would become a renowned international career, there were virtually no African-American role models for him to look to.
After breaking out with a furniture collection for Cappellini in 2000, he has gone on to design for Roche Bobois, Dedon, Missoni and Moroso, among other top companies.
Recently, when it was noted that he was the first Black designer to work with most of the design houses that hired him, he interrupted. Framing it that way, he said, actually "softens the blow a bit." For many of these companies, he noted, "I was the only Black designer."
While he is no longer alone in the business, there remains a dearth of Black designers — a fact that has taken on new urgency in the wake of the death of George Floyd and the protests that have followed.
Expressions of solidarity with Black Lives Matter across the design industries have poured out on social media. Black-owned design companies and studios are being singled out for support, and larger design firms are pledging to improve diversity and equity.
"I do think the moment is significant because it has woken up a group of people that have been sleeping for a long time," said Malene Barnett, a Brooklyn-based artist and textile designer who founded the Black Artists + Designers Guild in 2018. "Ultimately to change, the system has to be demolished and started from scratch. It's time for everyone to figure out how to create a new foundation so we can build a society that supports people and is truly inclusive."
For many Black designers, it is a complicated moment. While eager to seize the momentum, some see little reason to trust that talk of greater inclusiveness will translate into results, or that even well-intentioned incremental steps toward diversity will produce substantive change.
It doesn't take a great deal of research to recognize that Black designers are poorly represented in the world of high-end furnishings, a business with estimated global sales of about $25 billion last year.