A secret river runs through Minneapolis and St. Paul.
Almost no one knows that 30 feet beneath the surface of the languid Mississippi there are rapids. Not just a murmuring riffle or two, but a magnificent, roiling whitewater that once thundered for eight miles over massive boulders, around small islands and through the great river's only high-banked gorge on its way from St. Anthony falls to Fort Snelling.
Native people knew its perils, of course. The river was so fierce that in 1805 the explorer Zebulon Pike and his exhausted party strained to pull their boats upstream, resting on small islands that dotted the stretch.
The question now is: Why not restore these mighty rapids? With north Minneapolis' port closed to barge traffic, with downtown's St. Anthony locks padlocked just last week and with St. Paul's Ford plant demolished, there's no reason for keeping the dam that makes navigation possible on this stretch of the river. So why not crank open the gates at Lock and Dam No. 1 near Minnehaha Park and let the water flow swiftly and naturally?
With boulders and islands uncovered, the river's 100-foot drop between downtown Minneapolis and Fort Snelling would create a gushing spectacle during times of high water. These rapids would be a kayaking paradise and a sporting delight. Scores of eagles would soar overhead, drawn by all the fish that would mass in the oxygen-rich water and spawn in gravel beds under the swirling eddies.
Such rapids would make Minneapolis-St. Paul the only major city on Earth with a world-class whitewater running through it. "People are fascinated by wildly rushing water," said river historian John Anfinson of the U.S. National Park Service, hinting at the environmental and economic benefits restoration might bring.
Indeed, there's something magical about rushing water in an urban setting — the juxtaposition of the wild and the structured. Minneapolis and St. Paul have been working for decades to pivot the public's attention toward the Mississippi, just as scores of cities across the nation (the long list includes Chicago, Baltimore and Seattle) have been repurposing their industrial waterfronts for housing, parks, amusement piers and festival markets — and drawing millions of visitors in the process. Waterfronts are so alluring that cities without them (Dallas, San Antonio, and Scottsdale, Ariz., for example) are spending huge sums to "manufacture" the waterfront illusion.
But no one else has rapids.