Make chili crisp and miso butter to add spark to winter meals

When temperatures plummet, my hungers surge. Give me warm comforts with bold flavors. Nothing fussy; it has to be easy and it has to be quick.

Toward the dreary end of winter, I get weary. And, I confess, I want a shortcut to dinner — something swift that will help bounce up flavors without too much work.

My latest “hack” is chili crisp, also known as chili crunch, chili oil and chili sauce. The spicy Chinese condiment delivers crunch and a punch that’s salty, sweet and nutty. Be cautious: It’s potent, and just a little adds lots of color and pop to poached and scrambled eggs, rice and stir-fried vegetables.

Try rubbing it onto tofu or fish before pan frying. Whisk a little into mayonnaise for sandwiches, dips for veggies and chips, or a sauce for dunking wings, egg rolls and fries. You can find it in most grocery stores and online. Momofuku, the brand most widely available, is powerfully spicy and a bit pricey. Fly by Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp and S & B Umami Topping Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil cost less and are a bit milder. But it’s just as easy to make your own (see recipe).

At the other end of the flavor spectrum, miso butter gives everything it touches a rich, unctuous fermented tang. It’s great slathered over steamed broccoli and roasted potatoes. Do try it on roasted and sautéed mushrooms to up their umami. Put a dollop on seared steak, toss it with noodles, smear it over roast chicken and pan-fried fish. It’s a cinch to make; just equal parts soft butter and miso, and a drip of honey brings it into balance.

With these two condiments at hand, the simplest ingredients become bold, bright winter meals.

Makes about ¾ to 1 cup.

This packs plenty of flavor into a small jar. Use it sparingly, as a little does a lot. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

In a small saucepan, stir together the oil, onion, honey and salt. Set over low heat and simmer until onion has softened, about 30 seconds. Add the red pepper flakes and sesame seeds and transfer to a clean jar. Allow the mixture to cool before securing the lid. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Makes about ¼ cup.

Use this with abandon on sautéed vegetables (especially mushrooms), roasted or baked potatoes, pan-fried chicken, fish and meat. It’s also delicious on crostini. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

In a small bowl, whisk together the butter and miso. Season to taste with the salt and honey.

Serves 2.

Here’s a quick and easy dinner that’s delivers a lot of flavor for very little effort. Feel free to swap out the sweet potatoes for carrots or golden beets or whatever you’d like. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, toss the sweet potatoes and shallot with enough oil to generously coat. Scatter the vegetables onto the pan so they do not touch. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Cover the pan with foil.

Roast the potatoes, shaking the pan occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove the foil and continue roasting, until they’ve crisped and caramelized, another 10 minutes or so. Remove and transfer to individual bowls; add warm cooked rice on the side.

Serves 4.

These eggs become a lush, sunny sauce that laps the vegetables and rice. Be judicious with the chili crisp, as it’s powerful stuff. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Fill a medium deep skillet with enough water to measure about 1 ½ inches. Set the skillet over high heat and bring to a boil. With a slotted spoon, carefully place the whole, uncracked eggs in the water and roll them around for about 15 seconds to warm them up. Remove from the skillet and add the vinegar.

Crack the eggs into the skillet, spacing them apart. Reduce the heat to a simmer and poach the eggs until the whites are firm and the yolks are set, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, gently lift the eggs from the skillet and place in the bowl between the sweet potatoes and rice.

Garnish with dabs of the chile crisp and season with salt and pepper.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.