The perfect hot dish recipe for when you’re on the go

Perhaps it was the “exotic” name — turkey tetrazzini — as well as its ease of preparation that made it my mom’s signature casserole.

The recipe is said to be named for Luisa Tetrazzini, an Italian opera star at the turn of the 20th century. Who created it is widely disputed, with stories crediting chefs in New York City and San Francisco. The dish certainly sounds more interesting than its humble assemblage of leftover turkey, noodles and cheese. It was what Mom brought to bridal and baby showers, funerals and neighborhood potlucks because it can be made ahead to warm up and is easy to serve.

I grew up in New Jersey, where any meal served from one deep baking dish was called a casserole. The term “hot dish” was a revelation, the perfect moniker for this simple, thrifty and creative use of the odds and ends of a previous dinner.

Credit the Mankato Grace Lutheran Ladies Aid Cookbook for publishing the first official recipe in the 1930s. The traditional mix of protein, starch and vegetables bound in a creamy sauce and baked off until bubbly became especially popular during World War I and fed families during the Great Depression. It was and still is an inexpensive way to stretch the kitchen’s bounty.

Turkey Tetrazzini is perfect for a “meal train” dinner delivered to families with a new baby or when one is ill. And it’s just the dish to make ahead and tote to a ski weekend up north or share at a neighborhood potluck.

It’s one of those no-recipe recipes to make on the fly when it’s brutally cold and going out seems out of the question. It can be whipped up with an assortment of pantry staples — substitute canned tuna for the turkey, use frozen vegetables for the peppers, if you’re out of spaghetti, use rice, etc. All you really need is a baking dish. Hot dish, done!

(Serves 4 to 6 and is easily doubled)

A winter classic, this hot dish is perfect for meal train assignments, potlucks and informal gatherings. It can be made a day ahead and heated right before serving. While the recipe calls for turkey, leftover chicken (especially rotisserie chicken) works beautifully, too. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heavily butter an 8- by 8-inch baking dish.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and drop the pasta. Cook just until the pasta is al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain.

In a large deep skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and sauté the mushrooms, seasoning with a little salt and pepper until they have released their juices and begin to brown, about 12 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Whisk in the wine and cook to reduce slightly, about 1 more minute. Whisk in the stock, increase the heat and bring to a boil and cook until the stock has reduced by half. Whisk in the chunks of cream cheese, then fold in the turkey, peas, parsley and half of the cheese and half of the peppers. Add the drained pasta and toss with tongs to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Transfer the pasta to the prepared baking dish and scatter the remaining cheese and peppers over the top. Bake until the cheese is bubbly and browned, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and allow the dish to rest before serving. It will firm up as it cools.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.