I was witness to epiphany -- someone else's. At the end of a rugged day on a forest fire in Colorado, I should've been snuggled in a sleeping bag, but was distracted. Our camp sprawled in a high, remote meadow.
The Milky Way was dense and bright, like a sun-drenched cloud. Stars seemed poised at the ridge crests, almost in touch. After dusk I strolled beyond a pool of lantern light into the glare of the galaxy. I stared at the sky, unwilling to surrender to sleep.
On the second night I was trailed by Y.T., a Vietnam veteran who over the prior two days had related horrifying, mesmerizing tales. He'd seen everything, but not the night sky, not like this.
When he asked what I was looking at, I pointed. There was M31, the Andromeda Galaxy, a faint patch of light visible with the naked eye, a maelstrom of 1 trillion suns, and two-and-a-half-million light years away.
That steered us into talk of cosmic distance and time -- we were seeing Andromeda as it was when homo sapiens did not exist.
There was Polaris, the north star, target of the Earth's axis. To measure the distance of Polaris above the horizon is to measure your latitude.
But our planet wobbles as it spins, so the north celestial pole migrates around the northern sky in a cycle of 25,000 years. Using the handle of the Big Dipper as a guide, I showed Y.T. the dim star Thuban in the constellation Draco -- it was the north star when the Egyptians built the Great Pyramid at Giza, and millennia hence it will be again.
We turned, and just rising was the Pleiades star cluster, or Seven Sisters, a stunning thicket of sapphires in our own galactic neighborhood, a mere 400 light years distant. Dominating all was the Milky Way itself, an effulgent tide of stars and dust spanning the sky.