Rigatoni with Quick Mushroom Bolognese
Serves 4 to 6.
From “Mostly Meatless,” by America’s Test Kitchen (2025). Once we decided to develop a pasta sauce reminiscent of Bolognese without using meat, our tests quickly confirmed that cremini mushrooms, pulsed to small bits, did an excellent job of mimicking ground beef. We cooked the mushrooms in a skillet with onion, carrot and tomato paste so the cremini could soak; to make use of the flavor-packed fond that developed, we deglazed the skillet with wine, stirring until the alcohol cooked off. We then added pasta cooking water, which contributed enough starchiness to turn our mushroom mixture into a decadently velvety, umami-rich sauce. Pecorino Romano added savory oomph and nuttiness.
- 1 lb. rigatoni
- ¾ tsp. table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta
- 1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
- 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 small onion, chopped fine
- 1 carrot, peeled and chopped fine
- ¼ c. tomato paste
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- ¼ c. dry white wine
- ¼ c. grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for serving
- Chopped chives, for optional garnish
- Red pepper flakes, for optional garnish
Directions
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.
Meanwhile, pulse mushrooms in food processor until finely chopped, about 10 pulses. Heat oil in 12‑inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms, onion, carrot and salt and cook until mushrooms appear dry and begin to stick to the bottom of the skillet, about 14 minutes.
Stir in the tomato paste and garlic and cook until fond forms on the bottom of the skillet, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in reserved cooking water and bring to a boil. Add sauce and Pecorino to pasta in the pot and stir to combine. Serve with extra Pecorino and, if desired, garnished with chopped chives and red pepper flakes.
