Why you need to start using Minnesota honey

From baked treats to sauces and vinaigrettes, experiment with different colors and varieties of Minnesota honey to add sweet flavor and fun in the kitchen.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
October 25, 2023 at 12:00PM
Experiment with different varieties of local honey. Photo by Mette Nielsen, Special to the Star Tribune
Explore Minnesota honeys, which come in a wide variety of flavors and colors. (Mette Nielsen, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Honey — pure, simple, concentrated nectar — is sweet with memories of summery days, warm grass with bees buzzing among flowers. Honey is food for those bees; the source of energy so they can fly and collect more nectar, make more honey and store it in combs to nourish them through the winter.

Honey is a universal sweetener, and throughout history has been central to ceremonies and celebrations around the world. Fermented honey, or mead, was an intoxicant long before grapes were pressed into wine. And wax from the honeycombs became candles for light.

Honeybees arrived in North America from Europe in the mid-1600s, along with apple and plum trees that were planted in Jamestown, Va. Native Americans dubbed them "white man's flies," for they had been collecting honey from the nests of wild bees. Within a century, Indigenous people, too, began practicing the art of beekeeping.

The northern heartland is the highest honey-producing region in the United States, yet yields are declining as crops of corn and soybeans have replaced flowering plants, small grains and vegetables. Farm chemicals also have had a negative impact on the health of our bees, both domesticated and wild. Bees are known as the angels of agriculture, and are critical to pollinating alfalfa, sunflowers, fruits and vegetables.

The most interesting and flavorful honey is unprocessed or "raw" honey. Raw honey differs from commercially produced honey, which is blended from different sources and then pasteurized using high heat for consistency and stabilization. Many of our region's independent beekeepers sell "single-source" honey that reflects the flavor of the nectar the bees feast upon. Identified by the flower that defines the flavor of the honey, single-source honey can range greatly in color and flavor. Not all local honey is single-source: Some is collected from fields and forests with diverse plants; these honeys taste of the different regions where the bees thrive.

Color is most often the best indicator of the honey's flavor. Pale golden honeys, such as basswood, sweet clover and locust, are among the mildest, most delicate of our local varieties. Buckwheat is at the other end of the color and flavor spectrum. It is distinctly dark and bold with notes of cherry and plum, and slightly bitter. It's fabulous in glazes for meats, in barbecue sauce and in rich, spicy baked goods. I prefer it to molasses for its rich flavor.

Honey is far sweeter than sugar and it does have a distinct taste. In savory recipes for vinaigrettes, bastes, glazes and sauces, it brightens and heightens the flavors of spices, fresh herbs, tangy vinegar, lemon and lime. As a sweetener, it adds far more flavor than white sugar to breads, cakes, cookies, dessert sauces and puddings.

If you want to incorporate more honey into your cooking, here are a few general rules for replacing white sugar with honey in baked goods:

• For every cup of sugar, substitute 1/2 cup honey

• Reduce the amount of liquid by 1/4 cup per cup of honey.

• Balance the natural acids in honey with 1/8 teaspoon baking soda per 1 cup of honey.

• Because of the higher sugar content in honey, baked goods tend to caramelize quickly, so lower the heat and keep watch to avoid over-browning.

Raw, single-source honey is best stored away from direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate it — the cold temperatures cause honey to crystallize. If it does crystallize, just place the jar in a pan of warm water and move it around until the crystals dissolve. And be sure to use it in these honey-sweetened recipes.

Buckwheat Honey and Rye Bread is right at home on a charcuterie board. Recipe by Beth Dooley, photo by Mette Nielsen, special to the Star Tribune
Buckwheat Honey and Rye Bread is right at home on a charcuterie board. (Mette Nielsen, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Buckwheat Honey and Rye Bread

Makes one 9- by 5-inch loaf or three 5- by 3-inch loaves.

Note: The dark, rich notes of buckwheat honey underlie the fragrant ginger and warm spices in this bread. It's delicious with morning coffee, afternoon tea and at the end of the day with hard cider or beer, salted nuts, cured meats, and a robust, creamy brie or blue cheese. Find buckwheat honey in co-ops, Whole Foods and well-stocked grocery stores. You also can substitute another dark honey. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 1/2 c. rye flour plus a little more to dust the pan

• 2 tsp. baking powder

• 1/4 tsp. baking soda

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 2 tsp. ground cinnamon

• 1 tsp. ground cardamom

• 1 tsp. ground ginger

• 3 eggs

• 1/2 c. maple or light brown sugar

• 1 c. hazelnut or vegetable oil

• 1 c. buckwheat honey (see Note)

• 1/2 c. hard cider or light beer, plus a little more if needed

• 1 tbsp. freshly grated ginger

Directions

Grease and lightly dust with flour 1 loaf pan or 3 small loaf pans. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cardamom and ginger.

In a separate large bowl, whisk the eggs well then whisk in the sugar, oil, honey, cider and ginger. Whisk in the dry ingredients. If the batter is too stiff, add a little more cider. Transfer the batter to the prepared loaf pan(s). Bake until the bread is springy to the touch and a sharp knife inserted in the center comes up clean, about 45 to 50 minutes for the large loaf and about 20 to 25 minutes for the small loaves. Transfer the pan(s) to a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before unmolding and allow to cool completely before slicing.

Cauliflower with Persian Spices

Serves 4 to 6.

Just a drizzle of honey amplifies the warm spices in this simple dish. It's a wonderful side to roast chicken or lamb or an entree served over cooked grain and topped with Greek yogurt and chopped cashews. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 head cauliflower, broken into florets

• 2 to 3 tbsp. olive oil

• Generous pinch coarse salt

• Generous pinch freshly ground black pepper

• 3 tbsp. honey

• 1 tbsp. za'atar spice, or more to taste

• Lemon wedges for serving

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In a large bowl, toss the cauliflower with enough olive oil to generously coat along with the salt and pepper. Spread the cauliflower out on a baking sheet and roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until the cauliflower is nicely browned, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove and turn into a bowl and toss with enough honey to lightly coat, and then add the za'atar. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed; serve with lemon wedges on the side.

Ginger-Honey Sauce

Makes about 1 cup.

This Asian-inspired sauce is fabulous slathered over roast chicken or pork ribs or for dunking egg rolls and chicken drummies. It's ready in seconds. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 tbsp. grated fresh ginger

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1/4 c. honey

• 1/4 c. soy sauce

• 2 tbsp. dark sesame oil

• 2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

• 1/4 c. sliced green onions

Directions

In a medium bowl, whisk together the ginger, garlic, honey and soy sauce. Then whisk in the oil, vinegar and pepper flakes. Stir in the green onions right before serving.

about the writer

about the writer

Beth Dooley

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