The Jewish holiday of Passover comes with a number of food restrictions, the most famous of which is no leavened bread.
But (kosher) meat? That’s fair game — unless you are vegetarian or vegan.
Some Passover seders (the ritual meals, held on two nights beginning April 22) can be animal-protein-heavy, with schmaltz-fortified matzo balls, gefilte fish, golden chicken soup and, often, a meat main. But two new cookbooks offer a wide scope of recipes that incorporate a multitude of traditions, or make new ones.
“The Jewish Holiday Table: A World of Recipes, Traditions & Stories to Celebrate All Year Long,” by Naama Shefi and the nonprofit Jewish Food Society, divides the year by seasons and holidays, with menus from contributors across the globe. Passover, which heralds spring, gives home cooks a ticket to the Soviet Union, Mexico, Yemen, Turkey and Morocco by way of family journeys and stories.
In contributor Alexandra Zohn’s family in Mexico City, Passover always meant there would be minas. These savory pies begin with a layer of matzah (unleavened bread) and are topped with fillings of meats, vegetables or, in the quiche-like Mina de Espinaca, spinach, cheese and potatoes.
Gefilte fish is a love-it-or-hate-it appetizer on many Ashkenazi Jewish tables. In “Nosh: Plant-Forward Recipes Celebrating Modern Jewish Cuisine,” dietitian Micah Siva provides a plant-based alternative to the fish patties that her great-grandmother used to make.
Her Vegan “Gefilte” Cakes are made from a mixture of cauliflower, root vegetables and cashews, with sushi nori lending some of flavor of the sea.
For Siva, creating a vegan version of gefilte fish was essential to her holiday celebrations: “I couldn’t make a Jewish cookbook without paying homage to this family tradition.”