Rye berries are the new heritage whole-grain darling

If you've cooked your way through every color of quinoa and are ready for a shift, try rye berries, the whole kernels that are eventually ground into rye flour.

When you boil them, you get a powerfully nutritious whole grain with a nutty flavor and springy texture. It's an older crop that once grew across the region before being replaced by wheat, corn and soy. But thanks to the interest in heirloom grains — a natural progression for those seeking ingredients that are local, sustainable and authentic — rye is having its day.

Rye, like whole (unpearled) barley and the different varieties of heritage wheat, provides a number of benefits to the farm: it retains topsoil, captures water and shelters wildlife and pollinators. Planted in rotation, it breaks pest cycles and produces a lot of organic matter to enrich the soil. It also does well under extreme high-stress weather conditions. As more farmers adapt regenerative agriculture practices, cooks have more access to interesting, delicious, healthful whole grains.

Artisan grains have more protein, minerals and nutrients than white rice and pasta. Though they require longer times to simmer away in the pot, they do so on their own, without much fussing by the cook. Plus, they may be cooked ahead and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to a week, ready to toss into salads, soups, stews and pilafs. (That doesn't work with cooked white rice or pasta.)

What you can do with one whole grain, you can do with another. Though their nuanced flavors differ slightly, they all cook pretty much the same. When I'm looking for a simple, satisfying, healthful dinner, I just go with the grain.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: This deeply flavored pilaf makes a fine side to fish, beef or chicken. Vegans and vegetarians can add a cup of chickpeas to the mix for a protein bump. Find rye berries in local co-ops or online; farro and wheat berries work well, too. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 1/2 c. rye berries, rinsed

• Generous pinch salt

• 1 lb. sweet potatoes, scrubbed, peeled, and cut into 1/2-in. pieces

• 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided

• Coarse salt

• 1 tbsp. honey, or more to taste

• 1 bunch green onions, trimmed and sliced into 1-in. lengths, mostly white and light green parts

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the trout:

• 2 tbsp. olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 lemon, halved

To prepare the pilaf: Put the rye berries into a pot and add enough water to cover by 2 to 3 inches. Add the salt. Set the pot over high heat and bring to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer, cover the pot and cook the rye berries until tender and plump, about 50 minutes to 1 hour. Check the pot occasionally and add water if the rye berries are looking dry. Drain, and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the sweet potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil and a generous sprinkling of the coarse salt. Spread the sweet potatoes on the prepared baking sheet and roast, turning occasionally, until nicely crisped and caramelized, about 20 to 25 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, honey and remaining 1 tablespoon oil.

Turn the sweet potatoes, green onions and rye berries into a medium bowl and toss in the vinegar-honey mixture, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon the pilaf onto individual plates or a large serving platter and arrange the fillets on the pilaf.