Sunday supper: Grilled Shrimp and Tomatillo Street Tacos
These tacos from Owen Han’s “Stacked” may be small in size, but they’re big on flavor.
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Makes 12 small tacos for 4 servings.
Small “street taco” corn tortillas are now sold in supermarkets, and they do make authentic tacos. Because you get just a few bites per taco, they must be bursting with flavor, as they are here. Make them in a grill pan or griddle for now, but be sure to try them on an outdoor grill when the weather warms. From “Stacked: The Art of the Perfect Sandwich,” by Owen Han (Harvest, 2024).
Cilantro Tequila Shrimp:
- ¼ c. fresh lime juice
- ¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
- ¼ c. silver (blanco) tequila
- 2 tbsp. agave syrup or honey
- 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 tbsp. seeded and minced jalapeño chile
- 1 tsp. ground cumin
- ½ tsp. cayenne pepper
- ½ tsp. fine sea salt
- ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 1 ¼ lb. large (31–35 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
Red Cabbage Taco Slaw:
- Grated zest of 1 lime
- 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
- 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ tsp. ground cumin
- 2 packed c. shredded red cabbage
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For serving:
- 24 street taco–sized corn tortillas, warmed (see Tip)
- Tomatillo salsa, either store-bought or homemade (see recipe)
- 1 lime, cut into quarters
Directions
Marinate the shrimp: Whisk the lime juice, oil, tequila, honey, cilantro, jalapeño, cumin, cayenne, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Pour into a gallon-size resealable plastic bag, add the shrimp, and close the bag. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes but no longer than 1 hour.
Make the red cabbage taco slaw: Whisk the lime zest and juice, oil and cumin in a medium bowl. Add the cabbage, mix, and season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The slaw is best the day it is made.
Heat a ridged grill pan or griddle over medium heat. Remove the shrimp from the marinade. Spread the shrimp in the pan and cook until the edges turn opaque, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip the shrimp and cook until they are opaque throughout, about 1 minute longer. Transfer the shrimp to the chopping board and chop coarsely.
For each serving, build 3 tacos directly on a dinner plate. Make three stacks of 2 tortillas. Top each stack with a portion of the chopped shrimp, a spoonful of the slaw, and 1 tablespoon of the salsa. Fold the tacos in half and stand them next to each other for support. Add a lime wedge to each plate and serve immediately, with salsa passed on the side.
Tortilla tip: Many taquerías use a double stack of tortillas as protection against fillings that will soak into a single tortilla and make it fall apart. If you know your tortillas are sturdy, a single layer may be enough. The easiest way to heat the tortillas in pairs is to warm 12 double stacks in a preheated 350-degree oven, placing them directly on the oven rack without a baking sheet, for 4 to 5 minutes. Or warm them, one tortilla at a time, on a large griddle or heated grill, and transfer to a baking sheet in a preheated 200-degree oven to keep warm until ready to use.
Roasted Tomatillo Salsa
Makes about 2 cups.
I will put this salsa up against anything you can get at a restaurant or certainly at the supermarket. It is on the thin side, so it clings nicely to your burrito, taco, tostada, or chimichanga. Broiling really brings out the flavor of the vegetables. Chicken bouillon powder balances the strong flavor of the tomatillos. For spicier salsa, add the reserved ribs and seeds from the prepped jalapeño. From “Stacked: The Art of the Perfect Sandwich,” by Owen Han (Harvest, 2024).
- 1 lb. tomatillos, husks discarded
- ½ medium white onion, cut into ½-in. half-moons
- 1 jalapeño chile, halved lengthwise, ribs and seeds removed and reserved
- 4 whole cloves garlic, peeled
- 3 tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro
- 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
- 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican oregano
- 2 tsp. granulated chicken bouillon (or 2 tsp. well-crushed bouillon cubes)
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Position oven rack about 4 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler on high. Line a half-sheet pan with aluminum foil.
Place the tomatillos, onion and jalapeño halves, cut sides down, on the pan and add the garlic. Broil until the onions and jalapeño halves blacken and the tomatillo skins brown, about 10 minutes, turning the tomatillos as you go. Cool slightly. Peel off and discard the blackened jalapeño skins.
Add the vegetables to a food processor with the cilantro, lime juice, oregano and bouillon. Pulse until very finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl and season with salt and pepper. (The salsa can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 5 days.)
These tacos from Owen Han’s “Stacked” may be small in size, but they’re big on flavor.