Small, tender summer squash and zucchini shine in flavorful salad

Brace yourself. The zucchini and yellow squash are racing into farmers markets — hurry and grab them now before they swell into baseball bats. The less mature vegetables are short and slender with tiny, delicate seeds and have none of the pulpy texture or bitterness of the full-grown versions. Those are better suited to bread and muffins.

Zucchini and yellow squash are members of the summer squash family and they all behave pretty much the same in the kitchen; I use them interchangeably. At the market, look for summer squash varieties that are smooth-skinned, firm and without nicks or scars. Store them in either a plastic bag or a brown paper bag, making sure the end is open so the air can circulate, and tuck them into the crisper drawer of the refrigerator.

Tender, slightly peppery and grassy, young summer squash are best eaten without much fuss. Take a cue from the Spanish home cooks, who slice them to serve with dips, toss into salads, or better yet, marinate them in a tangy vinaigrette of olive oil and lemon juice or vinegar with spices and plenty of fresh herbs.

Slice the zucchini and summer squash into very thin ribbons or coins to marinate early in the day so they absorb all the flavors. There are various versions of this technique for a variety of different salads. Toss in an array of in-season vegetables — cherry tomatoes, diced peppers, snap peas, fennel, kale, chard — and hold in the refrigerator for a ready-to-go starter or side dish. Add cooked farro, barley or quinoa and cooked cannellini or chickpeas or toss in cubes of cheese or leftover roast chicken for a light main dish. Serve with hunks of rough, crusty bread and this is easy summer eating at its best.

Serves 4.

Note: This raw summer squash salad from Spain, known as Ensalada de Calabacin a la Andaluza, is bright, flavorful and a cinch to make. The tangy-sweet flavors pop with toasted nuts, sweet craisins, fresh mint, basil and lemon zest. Serve at room temperature or chilled for a starter or as a side dish to grilled chicken or lamb. Add cooked grains and beans or cooked chicken or cheese and you have a simple main dish salad. From Beth Dooley.

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

• 1 clove garlic, smashed and minced

• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest

• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

• 1 small young zucchini, sliced into thin rounds

• 1 small young summer squash, sliced into thin rounds

• 2 to 3 green onions, trimmed white part chopped

• 1/4 c. dried cranberries or raisins

• 5 mint leaves, chopped

• 5 basil leaves, chopped

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 1/4 c. chopped toasted walnuts (see below)

Directions

In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, garlic, lemon zest and cumin. Toss in the zucchini, summer squash, green onions, dried cranberries, mint leaves, basil leaves, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Allow to sit for 5 minutes so the flavors meld, or cover and hold in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours. To serve, adjust the seasonings and then scatter the nuts over the top of the salad.

To toast the walnuts: scatter the nuts onto a baking sheet and toast in a 350-degree oven until they begin to brown and smell toasty, about 3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool before chopping.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.