Horses once munched oats in the building that now houses Spoon and Stable, one of the Twin Cities' hottest restaurants. The name of the eatery, located in the historic North Loop, hints at its history, of course: Erected in 1906, the structure's past is acknowledged in design details like the hand-stitched leather covers on the wine menus or the old wooden ladder hung on a wall.
Outside, however, little evidence remains of the horse culture that dominated the streets of Minneapolis and St. Paul barely more than a century ago. Liveries and blacksmith shops used to populate the neighborhood, and the steeds that pulled horse-drawn trolleys were kept in a building a few blocks away.
Today, it's easier to find remnants of the city's pre-car era in the alleys of Lowry Hill — the small, high windows on carriage houses, from which stallions once peered; the porte-cochere tall enough to accommodate top-hatted drivers perched on spring-cushioned carriages.
In St. Paul, vestiges of the equine age are equally elusive: Only the keenest eye will spot the hitching post on Summit Avenue or the Brennan Livery sign on lower Grand Avenue.
Horses — and the businesses and infrastructure that catered to them — have vanished from our streetscapes. It's an erasure so complete that it's difficult to imagine that horses were once a common sight in both downtowns. Watering troughs and mounting blocks lined the avenues. Straw in the streets muffled the clamor of horses' hooves. As late as 1918, according to a Minneapolis tourism guide, visitors could still board a horse or hire a carriage at a local livery.
Animal vs. auto
Horses were the muscle that moved people and goods and helped with vital services in early Minnesota. They pulled carriage buggies, plows, wagons, sleighs, cutters, road graders, sprinklers, fire trucks, paddy wagons, hearses, even trolleys on rails in the Twin Cities until the arrival of steam-powered streetcars in 1879. (Electric trams followed a decade later.) Local prototypes of horseless carriages popped up in America in the 1880s and an electric car appeared in Minneapolis at the 1896 Bicycle Show (in fact, many of the first cars in America were built by bike mechanics). But few thought that cars would replace horses anytime soon.
For starters, cars were expensive. Only the richest Twin Citians, like Swan Turnblad, publisher of the Swedish American Post and the first electric-car owner in Minneapolis, could afford such toys. Potential buyers waffled, noting that automobile maintenance costs were unknown. The maximum speeds weren't all that impressive, either. Bored spectators at a time trial in Rhode Island famously jeered drivers with the insult "Get a horse!"
Rural residents especially loathed cars. Grangers outside Rochester dug up roads so automobiles couldn't pass. A Minnetonka farmer whose horses were spooked by a passing machine plugged the offending driver with a bullet.