Don’t let summer pass without trying this easy, cheesy salad

As a Caesar salad enthusiast, I’ve seen my share of crouton stand-ins. Some are quite good (crumbled pretzels, fried chickpeas, toasted pumpkin seeds), while others are mere wannabes. (Wasabi peas, ahem. Dried apple chips? Don’t get me started.) But not a single one holds a candle to that queen of crunch, the frico.

A traditional Italian nibble to serve with drinks, fricos are thin wafers native to Friuli, in the northeast, typically made by frying grated hard cheese until it turns golden, salty and audibly crunchy. Montasio and Asiago cheeses are the most traditional in Italy, but Parmesan and cheddar are more commonly used in the United States. Fricos are available premade in the snack food aisle (often called cheese crisps or Parmesan crisps), a blessing for those on keto or gluten-free diets, or anyone who needs a savory, crunchy bite on the fly.

Fricos found their way into my Caesar salad by happy accident. I was making croutons the way I usually do, sprinkling a layer of grated Parmesan over garlic-rubbed, oiled bread cubes before baking. Some of the cheese always falls to the bottom of the baking sheet, turning into delectable shards in the oven. (Tip for both crouton and frico makers: Always line your baking sheet with parchment paper, so the shards detach from the pan.)

Normally I’d devour all the shards directly from the pan, but that day I absent-mindedly tossed them into my salad with the croutons. The frico bits immediately scored top billing (along with the anchovies, of course).

It was a small step to realize that whenever I was rushed I could simply crumble up store-bought Parmesan crisps into virtually any salad, Caesar or not.

In this hearty, no-cook recipe, the Parmesan crisps add their salty crunch to soft and earthy white beans dressed in a bracing red wine vinaigrette. Slivers of fennel and onion lend sweetness, while arugula and basil add pleasingly green and bitter notes. I also shave some fresh Parmesan on top, both to bolster the cheesiness and to lend a creamy, briny tang.

The beans can be prepared a few hours in advance, but don’t add the Parmesan crisps until right before serving because they quickly lose their crunch in the dressing.

Caesars may be eternal, but who wouldn’t be happy to hail a stunning white bean salad crowned with crunchy cheese?

Serves 3 to 4.

This hearty, no-cook salad has a range of textures and flavors that make it particularly satisfying, all without much effort from the cook. The canned white beans are dressed in a bracing red wine vinaigrette that enlivens their soft earthiness with a welcome tang. Slivers of fennel lend sweetness, while arugula and basil add pleasingly green and bitter notes. Then, just before serving, crumbled store-bought Parmesan crisps make the whole thing crunchy, salty and very fun to eat. Just be sure not to add the Parmesan crisps until right before serving; they soften quickly and may lose their snap. From Melissa Clark, the New York Times.

Directions

In a small bowl, combine red wine vinegar, garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Let sit while you prepare the vegetables.

Using a mandoline (or very sharp knife), slice the fennel and red onion as thinly as you can (⅛-inch thick or thinner). Add to a large bowl, then add the white beans, arugula and basil.

To the vinegar mixture, slowly whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. Taste and add more salt or vinegar as needed.

Toss the salad with the vinaigrette until evenly coated. Taste and add a dash of lemon, and more salt and pepper if needed. Just before serving, toss in the Parmesan shavings and crisps, drizzle with a little more oil and serve.