Sunday supper: TJ Polish Dogs

Serves 6.

Baja and Sonora compete for ownership of the bacon-wrapped hot dogs known as Sonora Dogs or Danger Dogs and by those in Baja as TJ Dogs — they're basically tacos done as hot dogs. Wrap the dog in bacon, then grill or fry it and pile on ingredients. There are no rules. Here the traditional hot dog is replaced by Polish kielbasa segments and accompanied by their natural partner: sauerkraut. Mustard, in two forms — stone-ground swiped on the brioche bun and Dijon in the chile-mustard sauce — completes the picture. From "Cali-Baja Cuisine," by Michael A. Gardiner (Rizzoli, 2023).

For the Polish Dogs:

• 6 thick-cut slices bacon

• 2 (1-lb.) Polish kielbasas, cut into thirds

• 1 tbsp. grapeseed, canola, or other neutral-flavored oil

• 6 brioche hot dog buns

For the Ancho Chipotle Mustard Sauce:

• 3 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded

• 4 c. chicken stock

• 2 tangerines or oranges, peeled and roughly chopped

• 1 chipotle chile (from a can of chipotles in adobo), plus 1 tsp. adobo sauce from the can

• 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard

• 2 tbsp. Mexican crema

• Kosher salt

For serving:

• 6 tsp. stone-ground mustard

• 6 tbsp. sauerkraut

• 6 tsp. pickled red onions

• 6 tsp. pickled jalapeño chiles

Directions

Wrap 1 slice of bacon around each kielbasa segment, securing the bacon to the sausage with toothpicks at each end. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. When the oil ripples, add the wrapped kielbasa and cook until the bacon is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. During the last 2 minutes of cooking, add the buns to the pan to toast, if desired.

To make the sauce, toast the ancho chiles on a dry sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat for about 20 seconds, until fragrant. Do not overtoast the chiles. Place the chiles in a bowl and pour in enough hot water to fully cover them. Soak them for 10 minutes, or until they are pliable. Drain.

Combine the stock, tangerines, chipotle and adobo sauce, and the soaked ancho chiles in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce thickens and reduces by half, about 15 minutes. Transfer the sauce to a high-speed blender or food processor along with the Dijon and crema and blend until it is completely smooth. Taste the sauce and season with salt as needed.

To serve, swipe 1 teaspoon of the stone-ground mustard over the bottom of each bun. Top with 1 tablespoon of the sauerkraut. Nestle a sausage segment atop the sauerkraut. Finish with some of the sauce and top each with 1 teaspoon each of the pickled onions and jalapeños.