Take your pick of local peppers: The colorful fruits are in markets now

This time of year you'll find a glorious profusion of peppers at farmers markets — plump, sweet bell peppers; tiny, fiery chile peppers; and assorted oblong peppers, with flavors that fall somewhere in between.

There are just too many kinds of hot and sweet peppers to describe in one story. Bell peppers in shades of red, orange, yellow, brown, black, striped and white are reliably sweet, while the flavors of chiles can be a toss-up from warm to searingly hot. The exact level of heat often is anyone's guess, so if I'm unsure, I always ask the farmer who grew them.

The word for "pepper" — whether in Asian, African or European languages — is derived from the existing term for black pepper, one of the earliest known spices. But chile peppers are a gift of the New World to the Old World. The spice that set Christopher Columbus off to the East Indies ended in vain. Instead, he returned with a handful of chile pepper varieties that are now the most widely cultivated throughout the world, with hundreds of varieties available.

The heat in chiles comes from capsaicin, a naturally occurring substance that is not actually a taste but a compound that triggers heat receptors and tricks our brain into thinking we're overheating. Chile pepper plants most likely evolved to protect keep animals and fungus away. Credit the Hungarians for breeding peppers without capsaicin into the bell peppers we know today. Although enjoyed as a vegetable, all peppers, like tomatoes, are categorized as fruit and are best kept unwashed on the counter until ready to use. Cold spoils their flavor and texture.

Brightly colored, glossy and firm, those colorful bells are ripened green peppers. Green peppers can taste grassy and lack the sweet spunk of the mature varieties. For chiles, be warned that the smaller the pepper, the bigger the punch. One of the most distinctive chile varieties, developed in the Old World, is named for the city of Aleppo where it was first grown. Its flavor is deep and earthy, with just enough spice to be complex and pleasantly warm.

Faced with so many local choices, I like to mix chiles and bells in the same dish. Bell peppers make a classic container for a stuffing of ground turkey, chicken, beef, pork, lamb or cooked dried beans or grains sparked with chiles and topped with melty cheese. The basic recipe may be scaled up to feed a hungry crowd or turned into a pretty dinner for two.

While many stuffed pepper recipes call for the peppers to be blanched in advance or stuffed raw and then cooked longer, they're actually best when roasted first to soften them up before stuffing to finish the dish. The first roasting lightly caramelizes the peppers and the second ensures it will be tender but not to the point of falling apart. Stuffed peppers are a perfect use for last night's leftovers. You can prepare the whole dish ahead and hold it covered in the refrigerator to have at the ready.

Sweet and hot, peppers give spice and substance to our summery meals.

Serves 4.

A plant-powered dinner, these peppers are stuffed with white beans, sautéed greens and graced with a bit of bubbling cheese. From Beth Dooley.

• 4 brightly colored bell peppers, halved and seeded

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little more for drizzling over the peppers

• 1 lb. dark greens (Swiss chard, kale or spinach)

• 1 small red jalapeño chile

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 (15-oz.) can white beans, drained and rinsed

• Shot of red wine vinegar, to taste

• 1/4 c. toasted bread crumbs

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

• 1 tbsp. finely chopped thyme

• 1/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese

• 1/4 c. shredded mozzarella cheese

Directions

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Cut the peppers in half horizontally or, if they're very large, into quarters. Remove all the seeds and trim away the white pith inside. Arrange the peppers cut-side down on a rimmed parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with a little oil. Roast until just beginning to wrinkle and become slightly tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

While the peppers are roasting, roughly chop the leaves of the Swiss chard and thinly slice the stems. Seed, devein and mince the jalapeño. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium high and add the greens, jalapeño and garlic. Season with a little salt and pepper. Add a few tablespoons of water, cover and cook until the vegetables are very tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the beans and vinegar and remove from the heat.

Remove the peppers from the oven and turn them cut side up. Fill each with the bean mixture and top with the bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, Parmesan and mozzarella cheese. Drizzle with a little more oil. Return to the oven and roast until the bread crumbs are toasty and the cheese is melty, about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve.

Serves 4.

Tangle this spicy-sweet sauce into spaghetti or toss with white beans. Store it in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to a week. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 small onion, finely chopped

• 6 cloves garlic, smashed

• 1 lb. mixed bell peppers, seeded, deveined and diced

• 1/2 lb. Ancho, Anaheim, banana, or Italian frying peppers, seeded, deveined, diced

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 1 c. cherry tomatoes, halved

• 1/4 c. chopped parsley

• 1/4 c. chopped basil

Directions

Heat the oil in a large skillet, set over medium heat and add the onion, garlic and all the peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, parsley and basil and continue cooking, stirring, until the tomatoes have released their juices and are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove and toss with pasta or serve on top of rice or allow to cool and store in a covered container in the refrigerator.

Serves 4 to 6.

Try this brilliant relish on grilled fish, spooned onto bruschetta or layered into a grilled cheese sandwich. From Beth Dooley.

• 3 mixed bell peppers, seeded, deveined and cut into 1/4-in. strips

• 1 Anaheim or Italian frying pepper, seeded, deveined and cut into 1/4-in. strips

• 1 small chile (jalapeño), optional

• 1 bunch green onions, white part only, trimmed,

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 2 tbsp. capers, drained

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 2 tbsp. chopped parsley

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, to taste

Directions

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Put all the peppers and green onions into a large bowl and toss with the oil; salt and pepper to coat. Spread the vegetables in a single layer on a large parchment-lined baking sheet and roast until tender and lightly charred, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and toss in the capers, garlic, parsley, cilantro and lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving.

Serves 4.

Bright bell and shishito peppers and crunchy corn are tossed in a tangy lime and cumin vinaigrette. Traditionally used in Japanese cooking, shishitos are small, wrinkled, thin-skinned pale green peppers that pack a pleasantly mild-spicy punch. Add cooked chicken and you have a light, summery main dish salad. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 tbsp. fresh lime juice

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/4 tsp. ground cumin

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1/2 c. chopped red onion

• 4 to 6 oz. shishito peppers (about 15 to 20 peppers), stemmed and cut into 1/4-in. slices

• 1 medium bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed and cut into 1/4-in. strips

• 2 c. fresh corn kernels (from 3 to 4 cobs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Pinch of sugar, to taste

• 2 c. chopped fresh cilantro leaves

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil

Directions

In a small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, olive oil and cumin, then stir in the garlic and onion. Allow mixture to stand for about 5 minutes to temper the garlic and onion.

Put the shishito and bell peppers and corn into a large bowl, toss in the vinaigrette and season with salt, pepper and a small pinch of sugar to taste, then toss in the cilantro and basil. Serve.

Beth Dooley is author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.