The 15 drinks at the top of our State Fair must-try list

With more than 60 new sippers — including beer, cider, seltzers, slushies and mead — choices have to be made.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
August 26, 2023 at 3:00PM
There’s no shortage of new beverages at this year’s Minnesota State Fair. (Provided/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

The State Fair is here and that means a new assortment of sometimes strange and always exciting beers. Perusing the list is always a challenge; there are so many to choose from. Unless you're planning to go several days, you can't possibly try them all. You have to pick and choose.

There are some themes apparent in this year's beer lineup. The oddball, over-the-top beers are there, of course. Fruit beers are big, with everything from blood oranges to peaches and cucumbers. IPAs are also in abundance, both hazy and clear. And collaborations are popular, with many beers the result of cooperation between breweries, restaurants and even a distillery.

Here are 15 new offerings that I look forward to tasting.

The oddballs

I'm generally not a fan of gimmicky, cookie-candy beers, but here I make an exception. At the State Fair it's expected, even demanded.

If anyone can pull off an oddball beer with finesse it's Kristian England, the head brewer at Bent Brewstillery. The Roseville brewery/distillery has two such beers that I find intriguing. Cheers to Cherry Pie is a malty, gluten-reduced ale made with Hungarian-type tart cherries and vanilla. I'm imagining a sweet/tart cherry explosion with a crackery malt base. I love cherry pie and this one sounds delicious.
The Hideaway Speakeasy, located in the Veranda, upper-level Grandstand

Greek Cookie is based on melomakarona cookies, a Greek sweet treat that's usually associated with Christmas. But who cares about the holiday? It's the State Fair. Also gluten-reduced, it's made with orange, honey, nut-free walnut extract and brandy. How can you go wrong?
Dino's Gyros, Carnes Av. between Nelson and Underwood Sts.

Butter Together from the Freehouse in Minneapolis is described by the brewery as "refreshing" and "sessionable." But I'm not sure how a butter beer with caramel, butter and vanilla can possibly be refreshing. Will it work for a hot summer day at the fairgrounds? I aim to find out.
Blue Barn, West End Market

Fruit beers

A well-made fruit beer can be the perfect summer refresher. And there are plenty of them to choose from this year.

Sun Seared Grilled Lemon Blonde Ale is one that I'm particularly excited to try. Made by Minneapolis' Bauhaus Brewlabs with the help of Animales BBQ, it's one of the many collaboration beers available. Who doesn't love grilled lemon? I imagine that caramelized citrus flavor will be a great complement to the grainy sweetness of the light lager. Contrasted with some lemon acidity, it has to be great.
RC's BBQ, Dan Patch Av. between Liggett and Chambers Sts.

Indeed Brewing Co. of Minneapolis has another surefire winner with Cucumber Lemon Lager. An already light and refreshing lager beer combined with the cooling influence of salted cucumber and lemon should make for a delicious midafternoon quencher.
Dino's Gyros, Carnes Av. between Nelson and Underwood Sts.

Blood orange is always a great addition to light, pale beers. It should blend well with Castle Danger's — of Two Harbors, Minn. — already delightful Castle Cream Ale. With the Blood Orange Cream Ale I expect the zesty sweet/tart orange to provide a complementary overtone to the grainy sweet beer.
O'Gara's at the Fair, corner of Dan Patch Av. and Cosgrove St.

Though chili pepper might not usually be thought of as a fruit, I'll include Surly's LuLucifer's Lager anyway. I had the opportunity to taste this one at a preview event, and I'll likely go back for another. I love my food spicy hot, but not generally my beer. But puya chiles and hickory lend this lager a subtle bite that doesn't set your mouth on fire. The heat is supported by light toastiness and notes of cherry and licorice.
LuLu's Public House, West End Market.

Also at LuLu's is Schell's Peach-E-Keen. Schell's Berliner Weiss-style beers are arguably the best sour beers made in the state. This one promises a tart, wheaty base with a huge burst of fresh peach flavor and aroma. This will be a don't-miss for me.

Brewed by Back Channel Brewing in Spring Park, Edna's IPA at LuLu's Public House is a collaboration between Back Channel Brewing and Schell's.
Brewed by Back Channel Brewing in Spring Park, Edna’s IPA at LuLu’s Public House is a collaboration between Back Channel Brewing and Schell’s. (Provided/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

IPAs

I also got to taste Edna's IPA at the LuLu's event. It's Back Channel Brewing's half of a collaboration brew with Schell's. The two breweries — from Spring Park and New Ulm, respectively — used the same bill of hops from New Zealand to create two very different beers. This is a hazy IPA that still has enough bitterness to give it some backbone. The hops give it layers of citrus, stone fruit and a prominent herbal and sauvignon blanc grape profile. It's delicious.
LuLu's Public House, West End Market

Eddie's Lager is Schell's contribution to the collaboration. I have not tried it, but I'm expecting a light, crisp crusher with citrus, herbal and sauvignon blanc notes similar to Edna's IPA.
Ball Park Café, Underwood St. between Dan Patch and Carnes Avs.

Who doesn't love a mimosa? B.F.F. is a mimosa-inspired hazy IPA resulting from the collaboration of Bauhaus Brewlabs, Forgotten Star Brewing of Fridley and the Freehouse (B.F.F.). Copious amounts of German Mandarina Bavaria hops and orange peel promise a juicy, tangerine-orange explosion. I'll take it.
The Blue Barn, West End Market

Cold IPA is a recent trend that never quite took off. Fermented at colder temperatures than most ales, it gives it a crisp, clean character that lets the hops shine. Duluth's Bent Paddle Brewing Co. brings it to the fair with Superior Shiver Cold IPA. It should be a cooling cutter for loads of fried food on a stick.
Ball Park Café, Underwood St. between Dan Patch and Carnes Avs.

The higher alcohol of an IPA can be hard to take when you're outside on a hot summer day. Summit's Dan Patch'N Fruit IPA is a sessionable 4.6% alternative for those who want some hops. It promises bright passion fruit and tropical fruit flavors in a light and refreshing package.
Shanghai Henri's and Summit On-A-Stick at the International Bazaar

And more

Sometimes I want a beer that's just a beer, even at the fair. That's why I'm looking forward to tasting State Fair Amber Ale from Wisconsin's Leinenkugel's Brewing Co. I love a good amber ale and this one sounds perfect with roasted caramel, bready malt and mild citrus hops.
Leinie Lodge on Cooper St.

I previewed one delicious beverage that's not a beer at all. I'm not typically crazy about mead, but Mead For Speed from Sociable Cider Werks of Minneapolis hit my tongue in all the right ways. Orange blossom honey gives it a delicate honey profile with herbal and citrus aromatics. Dry and effervescent, it's a super easy-drinker. I'll go back for more.
LuLu's Public House, West End Market

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about the writer

Michael Agnew

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