The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

Should it be the nicely charred jerk chicken with house sauce reminding us of grilling season or the glistening, fall-off-the-bone rich oxtail stew? Then again, a seasoned-laden sautéed shredded vegetables dish is just as memorable whether you’re vegetarian or not.

Debating our favorite dish at this Brooklyn Park spot was not the worst problem to have. Ultimately, it was the curry chicken ($17) that would be the order most on repeat. Stewed chicken thighs, carrots, bell peppers and spices that gave a slight kick were comforting yet bold. Like the other dishes, it’s served with a side of beans and rice as well as slaw with a bright house dressing for a hearty meal.

Any route you choose, all the Jamaican dishes on Nadia Wotrang’s menu are near and dear to the heart of the chef, who channels flavors from her late mom, “Mama Lus.” Wotrang tells us that islanders used to ask her mom to cook and cater special events, from birthday parties to weddings. After more than 20 years in food management, Wotrang branched out on her own two years ago to open the restaurant and catering operation so that she can continue her family’s tradition of serving communities authentic Jamaican fare.

During a recent lunch, a steady stream of customers dined in or ordered takeout at the order at the counter place. Spotted alongside Wotrang in the kitchen was her son Tyler. It was heartwarming to witness mom passing on the family tradition as well as stories, Tyler remarking at one point that he “didn’t know that about grandma.” From the food to the cooks behind them, there’s a lot of heart beaming out of this kitchen. (Nancy Ngo)

9590 Noble Pkwy., Brooklyn Park; nadiasjamaicankitchen.com

The good news is that the burgers are sticking around. When Mr. Paul’s Supper Club at 50th and France in Edina announced that its casual Po' Boy and Jams storefront was revamping, it looked like events that were held within — namely the Friday night burger bar pop-up, would fade into fond memories.

But then, Mr. Paul’s gave us the Minnesotan: Ope! They’re not done with the burgers just yet. In fact, their classic ode to ground beef is still available at the bar for $12 during happy hour (Tue.-Thur. 4-6 p.m., Sun. 3-8 p.m.).

The burger encapsulates the good time vibes this place is known for: custom ground beef, cheese, a house burger sauce and pickles that hit that sour-crisp snap to balance every juicy bite.

Plus, the kitchen’s planning on having some fun with the burger lineup on Sundays, featuring surprise burgers for $13. Just grab a seat at the bar and follow that meaty adventure. (Joy Summers)

3917 Market St., Edina, mrpaulssupperclub.com

The restaurateurs behind Minneapolis Tibetan-Japanese restaurants Momo Sushi and Ama Sushi have expanded their reach. Chef/owner Sonam Nyorie just introduced Momo Cafe on Central Avenue, not too far from Momo Sushi.

For the new coffee and tea shop concept, orange matcha and pistachio rose lattes share space with traditional coffee selections, along with teas and smoothies. But that’s not to be overshadowed by the small yet impactful food offerings. A bakery case features Bogart’s Doughnut Co., the local outfit beloved for their brioche doughnuts.

As much of a treat is the food item that’s made on-site: the Tibetan momos. On the day we visited, vegetable ($11) or beef dumplings ($13) were the daily specials and came with seven pieces. We couldn’t decide which, and at the suggestion of staff, mixed and matched ($13). The dumplings are steam-cooked to order, the savory spices and seasonings along with fresh chives packing earthy, fragrant notes in both the ground beef and creamy potato dumplings. The two sauces that came with it, one challenging in heat and another more mild, struck a balance. The space, adorned with Tibetan art against a backdrop of light woods, was equally harmonious and grounding. (N.N.)

3035 Central Av. NE, Mpls., instagram.com/momocafemn

Solidarity for all families with a selective-eating kid. I have one who is game for anything. But my younger one? Well, she has opinions. It seems that strongly held sentiments regarding sustenance are genetic.

Food is so much more than a means to an end in our house. It’s a family legacy passed down through generations as a way to connect with each other, our neighbors and travel the globe without a passport. It’s a show of comfort in hard times and celebration for good.

But it’s also a daily struggle. For all of that: Shish was an all-star this week.

The Grand Avenue restaurant has been serving up breakfast through dinner for almost 20 years, ever since Leo and Beth Judah opened the storefront near Macalester College. The menu size is almost overwhelming, from cardamom pancakes to mezze to carrot cake. But we discovered our solace in the Gyro Family Dinner ($65). With my mom visiting, we feasted on saffron rice, gyro meat, pita, tzatziki and a fresh salad. Even my discerning eater loved building her own bites. Plus, the meal that was billed as serving four to six, fed five of us — and there were still leftovers for the next day. (J.S.)

1668 Grand Av., St. Paul, shishongrand.com

The snow hadn’t fully melted yet when I walked to Public Domain on an evening of bar-hopping in the North Loop. But the drink I got, once inside this low-key and elegant cocktail lounge, tasted like pure springtime.

Notably, Public Domain doesn’t offer a cocktail menu; instead, you tell the bartender your spirit of choice and your mood, your likes and dislikes, and then let yourself be surprised. On an earlier visit here, I told the bartender I wanted something creamy and dessert-y, but not chocolate or coffee-flavored. The bartender nailed it. So, on every subsequent visit, I play one game of cocktail roulette, but I always order the Peach Blow Fizz for my second round.

There’s no peach involved here, just fresh strawberries, muddled into a creamy-yet-citrusy situation that’s spiked with gin and topped with egg white foam and club soda. It’s a marriage between an egg cream beverage and a sun-dappled garden in April. Public Domain owner Stefan Van Voorst called this 1930s cocktail “a fruitier version of the Ramos Gin Fizz.”

Public Domain has to be one of the prettiest cocktail rooms around, but it also has a divey counterpart in the back. That space debuted as Neon Tiger, but the night I was there, the back room was closed. Van Voorst says it’s getting a new name and concept, and pretty soon, the North Loop will be home to a new tiki bar. (Sharyn Jackson)

119 Washington Av. N., Mpls., publicdomainmpls.com