This is a guest blog post by Steve Schirber, of Cocoon.
Re-insulating an existing home properly is a complicated task. A house is a system; a bunch of smaller parts that make up systems, that make up larger systems. The tighter the house, the more a house tends to behave like a system. This means that when you change something in the house, such as adding more insulation, that change can affect the homes performance. In most cases, this is the intended outcome.
If insulation and air sealing is performed in an attic, it might make the rooms below feel warmer, reduce heating costs during the winter, and help to prevent snow from melting on the roof, in turn eliminating ice dams. That's great, but what else changed that wasn't supposed to? Here's a list of possible unintended consequences.
Back Drafting
When air is pulled out of a house, the house will draw outside air back into the house. The amount of air coming in equals the amount of air being pulled out. Simple. This exchange of air happens when you run your bath fans, range hood, or clothes dryer. Depressurization occurs when there is more air leaving the house than coming in. Depressurization can cause a handful of problems, but I will focus on back drafting.
Back drafting occurs when a combustion appliance, such as a water heater, can't generate enough draft to vent the combustion gases up the flue. When back drafting happens, these gases spill into the house, causing a potential buildup of carbon monoxide. Unintentional carbon monoxide exposure accounts for an estimated 15,000 emergency department visits and 500 unintentional deaths in the United States each year. (Source: http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm5650a1.htm).
While the Minnesota Fuel Gas Code has specific installation requirements for gas water heaters, just following all of these rules doesn't mean a water heater will draft properly. Even with a proper installation, there are three common home improvements that can cause problems with existing water heaters.
- Tightening the enclosure. This is done by air sealing gaps or cracks in the exterior of the house, adding insulation or weather stripping, and replacing windows or siding.
- Adding ventilation appliances such as bath fans, larger cooktop vent hoods or whole house ventilation fans.
- Replacing the furnace. When older furnaces are replaced with newer sealed combustion units, the water heater vent often becomes "orphaned". It used to share a large flue with the old furnace, but now it's left to fend for itself to produce a draft. The relatively small burner on a water heater doesn't always product enough draft to work properly by itself, so it back drafts.
Back drafting can be prevented by not having open combustion appliances - this often means replacing the old natural draft water heater with a powervent water heater. Performing a worst case depressurization test can determine if back drafting is occurring already, and can help predict if it will occur when the home is made tighter.
Condensation Problems
I often hear people say "...they build houses too tight. You gotta let them breathe." A leaky house may be uncomfortable and may have high utility bills, but is always well ventilated. This is why most 100 year old homes don't have mold or moisture problems. They "breathe". When houses are made tighter, they need to breathe through an intentional hole at a controlled rate. We have to pay close attention to this as we go into a house to perform air sealing measures or add insulation. These changes can tighten the house, effectively eliminating a source of ventilation. These changes in ventilation rates can have undesirable consequences such as elevated moisture levels in the house, condensation on windows, or mold growth.