Sunday supper: Breakfast burritos

Serves 4.

Breakfast burritos first appeared on a menu in 1975 at Tia Sophia’s in Santa Fe, N.M., and now they’re beloved as a handheld, hearty and customizable meal. For this potatoey burrito version, we wanted potatoes that stayed extra-crispy. Frozen Tater Tots, thawed and then smashed flat in the skillet, did the trick. We added fluffy scrambled eggs, pinto beans, sharp cheddar cheese and sautéed vegetables for a vegetarian filling. A potent chipotle sour cream sauce provides tang and heat without adding excess moisture. Browning the rolled burritos in a hot skillet right before serving produces a crispy golden exterior and helps them stay sealed. To thaw frozen tots, let them sit in the refrigerator for 24 hours or arrange them on a paper towel-lined plate and microwave for 1 ½ minutes.

Chipotle sour cream:

• 1/4 c. sour cream

• 2 tbsp. minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

• 2 tsp. lime juice

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

• 1/4 tsp. table salt

Burritos:

• 6 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided

• 2 c. frozen Tater Tots, thawed and patted dry

• 1 poblano chile, stemmed, seeded and chopped

• 1/2 c. canned pinto beans, rinsed

• 1/2 c. frozen corn

• 1/4 c. chopped onion

• 1 tsp. chili powder

• 1/2 tsp. table salt

• 8 large eggs, lightly beaten

• 3/4 c. sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

• 4 (10-in.) flour tortillas

Directions

For the chipotle sour cream: Combine sour cream, chile, lime juice, garlic, cayenne and salt; set aside.

For the burritos: Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add Tater Tots to skillet and press with spatula or underside of dry measuring cup to flatten slightly. Cook until crispy and deep golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer tots to paper towel-lined plate and set aside. Wipe skillet clean.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add poblano, beans, corn, onion, chili powder and salt and cook until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add eggs and, using rubber spatula, constantly and firmly scrape along bottom and sides of skillet until eggs begin to clump and spatula leaves trail on bottom of skillet, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, gently stir in cheddar and constantly fold eggs and cheddar until clumped and just slightly wet, 30 to 60 seconds. Cover to keep warm.

Wrap tortillas in damp dish towel and microwave until warm and pliable, about 1 minute. Arrange tortillas on counter. Spread about 1 ½ tablespoons reserved chipotle sour cream across bottom third of each tortilla, leaving 1-inch ­border. Top chipotle sour cream with tots and eggs. Working with 1 burrito at a time, fold sides of tortilla over filling, then fold up bottom of tortilla and roll tightly around filling.

Wipe skillet clean. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in again-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Arrange burritos in skillet seam side down and cook until crisp and golden, about 1 minute per side. Serve.