An exclusive first look at Centro’s new Roseville restaurant

“The future is suburban,” said owner Jami Olson as she looked around her newest restaurant, surveying the about-to-open chaos and bright-colored murals.

“I love Minneapolis — I live there, but this is exactly where we see ourselves growing,” said Olson, who owns Vivir, Everywhen Burger, Hippo Pockets and Bina’s in addition to Centro.

The new Roseville location, which opens Aug. 16 inside what was once Good Earth, is the fourth Centro. While the soul of the casual eatery is about tacos and pitchers of margaritas, there are plenty of new reasons to be excited.

“We put together so many highchairs,” said Grace McDonald, Centro’s marketing manager, when asked what’s different about this restaurant. It’s also the first Centro that stands entirely alone, without any of Olson’s other concepts nearby, and is built to welcome everybody, with a huge parking lot to boot.

The menu has expanded to include dishes that will appeal to little diners and picky palates — it’s the first time flour tortillas will be served. There’s the burger from sister restaurant Bina’s and, for those who used to regularly lunch at the address, a couple of salads, including a taco salad in a fried tortilla bowl. Tortas and Centro’s wrapped-up Crunches are on the menu, too.

Centro got its start in a former adhesives factory in northeast Minneapolis in 2018 as a casual counterpoint to the groundbreaking Popol Vuh Mexican fine-dining restaurant. At the time, Olson was working with chef Jose Alarcon, who has since left the company, but many of his original recipes remain.

Shea Design installed yellow doors as room decor in the original Centro, and framed the top of the bar with reclaimed windows. Shea carried that through to Roseville while adding a dining room that’s wide and easy to navigate and a new custom cross-stitch mural by artists Third Daughter, Restless Daughter (Wone Vang and Youa Vang) now under construction.

“There are touches from all the other Centros that we’ve brought here,” said Olson. Pink grout peeks between the white subway tile, like in Highland Park. Corner booths were installed for families or groups of friends, similar to the Eat Street location.

And the patio, another Centro signature, is built for a party. The covered pergola has been outfitted with heaters to extend the season and fans to keep it cool on sunny summer days. There are a couple of disco balls for good measure. Dogs are welcome, too.

Inside, the dining room windows roll up to give it an inside-outside vibe on nice days.

Over at the bar, in addition to pitchers of margaritas — including standard, mezcal and guava — there’s an impressive selection of agave spirits. There’s also rosé sangria, palomas and rosaritos on tap, as well as classic and NA cocktails, beer and wine.

The restaurant is also leaning into technology. Guests will order via large touch screens, with trained staff circulating to provide guidance. There will be QR codes on tables for ease of adding onto orders.

Centro Roseville will be open for lunch and dinner. If business continues to go well, Centro’s suburban future looks as bright as the Malibu Barbie and Ken vibes the new dining room exudes. While there are no plans yet, Olson says she has her eyes on a few metro areas that might need a new taco and tequila hot spot.

“Suburban life is so appealing,” said Olson. “We want to meet people where they are — this growth is about intentionality.”

Centro Roseville, 1901 Hwy. 36, Roseville, centrompls.com Other locations: 1414 NE. Quincy St., Mpls.; 2412 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls.; 750 S. Cleveland Av., St Paul.