Cooler weather calls for more robust fare, and a Fine Fennel Salad for Fall fits the bill. (Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Crisp fall days call for sturdier fare. No more tender lettuces and delicate tomatoes — when it comes to salads, it's all about substance and crunch.

Take fennel, which is too often overlooked. I'll bypass its cousin celery for fennel's subtle anise flavor and pretty fronds any day. Fennel is a very versatile vegetable, as delicious raw as it is cooked. Shred it for slaws, chop and toss it with greens, braise it till tender and toothsome, or roast it into a lush, caramelly fare-thee-well.

Fennel adds texture and flavor to soups, stews and casseroles. Use the fronds as a wonderful garnish and the stalks for a Bloody Mary swizzle stick. Fennel seeds, whole and ground, are the primary seasoning in Italian sausages and are used to flavor breads. Fennel grows prolifically on our farms, and is in season now through early winter. You'll find it at farmers markets and in co-ops and stores.

Look for fennel with a fat bulb that's tight, heavy and greenish-white, with sturdy stalks and fine, feathery fronds. Store fennel in the vegetable bin loosely wrapped plastic. It will store for up to a week, but you'll want to use it before then. Trim off the stems and hollow stalks and save them for garnishing or seasoning the dish. Cut off the hard bottom, then slice the bulb into thin strips or half-moons. That's it.

For a perfect fall salad, fennel and apples make a tasty match. Fennel's winsome mild licorice notes pair beautifully with tart, juicy apples, especially our local Haralson and juicy Honeycrisp. Add peppery arugula and toasty hazelnuts and bring it together with a rough-sweet maple-mustard vinaigrette. Top with sliced grilled chicken or chunks of Cheddar cheese and call it lunch.

A Fine Fennel Salad for Fall

Serves 4 to 6.

Turn this into an entree salad with slices of grilled chicken or your favorite hard cheese — Cheddar, feta, Parmesan. You'll end up with more dressing than you need; store it in a covered container in the refrigerator to use for basting roast pork or chicken, drizzling over roasted vegetables, and seasoning roast sweet potatoes. It's wonderful to have on hand. From Beth Dooley.

For the vinaigrette:

• 3 tbsp. cider vinegar

• 2 shallots, minced

• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper

• 1 tbsp. coarse Dijon mustard

• 1/3 c. maple syrup

• 1/2 c. hazelnut or vegetable oil

For the salad:

• 1 fennel bulb, about 8 to 10 oz.

• 1 Haralson or Honeycrisp apple

• 2 c. arugula

• 1 c. chopped kale

• 1/4 c. toasted, lightly chopped hazelnuts (see tip below)

Directions

To prepare the vinaigrette: Put the vinegar, shallots, pepper, mustard and maple syrup into a small bowl and whisk together until fully combined. Slowly whisk in the oil. Set aside.

To prepare the salad: Remove the stalks from the fennel. (Reserve for later use in stocks, soups or as a stir-stick for drinks. Save the fronds for garnish.) Remove and discard the tough bottom end, then slice the bulb into thin crescents and set aside.

Core and seed the apple and cut into thin slices.

In a large bowl, toss together the arugula, kale and fennel. Drizzle in the vinaigrette and toss to lightly coat. Arrange the apple slices over the greens and fennel. Toss in the chopped hazelnuts. Serve right away.

Tip: To toast hazelnuts, place them on a baking sheet and roast in a 350-degree oven until they smell toasty, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and roll into a clean kitchen towel and rub off the dark skins.