How to make Brussels sprouts irresistible (yes, it can be done)

Brussels sprouts: green nuggets, caramelized to a sweet-salty fare-thee-well; classic side dish; go-to appetizer. Credit David Chang of Momofuku for catapulting these tiny cabbages to menu-star status, ubiquitous as French fries or chicken wings in bars and restaurants across the land.

The Brussels sprouts we find in our farmers markets and co-ops now are lighter and tastier versions of the sprouts that came before them. Back in the 1990s, a Dutch scientist identified the chemical compounds that made Brussels sprouts bitter and set agronomists on a path to breed them into their sweeter selves.

Our local sprouts are now at their peak. Buy those that are firm with no brown outer leaves; keep them in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator for up to a week. To prepare them, simply trim and discard the bottom and any dried, bug-bitten or brown outer leaves.

While there are a number of ways to prepare sprouts — raw and shredded into a salad, steamed until just tender crisp, and deep fried — I’m biased toward the simple, foolproof method of high-heat pan roasting. It’s best to cut the sprouts in half to allow all sides to caramelize and become fabulously crisp. But first, slather them with a flavorful glaze, preferably one that is sticky and sweet. Maple syrup with mustard or hot sauce or soy sauce; hot honey and lemon; chili sauce and rice wine vinegar; or your favorite Asian dipping sauce — you get the idea.

Be careful, though, and resist the urge to grab one straight off the hot pan, they’re finger singeing hot. You may find yourself eating the whole lot before they even get to the table. Kitchen tip: Plan to make two trays.

Serves 4 to 6.

When exposed to blasting heat, the sprouts caramelize, soften slightly and become tantalizingly crisp. The only issue with these sprouts is burning your fingers when you’re tempted to eat them straight off the pan. It’s always a good idea to make an extra batch. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, syrup and mustard until smooth. Add the sprouts and toss to coat. Transfer the sprouts to the baking sheet and spread them out, drizzling every last drop of the maple glaze over the sprouts.

Roast the sprouts until tender and nicely caramelized, about 35 to 40 minutes, turning them halfway through with a spatula. Remove from the oven. Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle with a little vinegar, not much, to taste.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.