Lemons give chicken a springtime twist — and keeps it from drying out

Chicken breasts are a cook's conundrum. At their best, they're moist and tender, but too often, sadly, they end up dry and rubbery. The key to cooking success is understanding how to choose and handle the meat.

The best-tasting chicken comes from birds that are raised outside in the sunshine and grow slowly and naturally without antibiotics and hormones to rush them along. When shopping, look for chicken that is labeled "pasture raised."

Breast meat is far leaner than its dark-meat counterparts, like thighs and legs, and lacks the muscle and sinew that naturally baste it while cooking. Most chicken breasts are sold skinless, missing that cap of fat that protects the meat and keeps it juicy. I've found oven roasting is a surefire way to cook chicken breasts, especially when they're bathed in lots of fresh lemon juice and quality olive oil and showered with fresh herbs. Adding fresh vegetables that roast alongside it makes for a simple, one-pan meal.

No matter what technique you choose, it is most important that chicken breasts not be overcooked. The meat is done when it feels firm to the touch if tapped with your index finger, it's opaque white (not pink), and a digital meat thermometer registers no more than 160 degrees. The chicken will continue cooking once it's out of the oven — be sure to let it rest a couple of minutes so the juices retract back into the meat.

Then, slice and serve it with all the luscious juices and vegetables spooned over herbed rice or pasta and dinner is set. Double the recipe for tomorrow's salad or sandwich and you'll have two meals in one.

Serves 4.

Note: This simple sheet-pan dinner relies on the zing of lemon, good olive oil and plenty of herbs. Cover the chicken breasts with slices of lemon to seal in flavor and keep them moist. Don't hesitate to toss in whatever other vegetables you happen to have on hand along with the tomatoes and scallions — fennel, asparagus and green beans all work well. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 2/3 to 3 lb. chicken breasts (about 10 oz. each)

• 1/2 c. quality olive oil, divided

• 1 bunch scallions, trimmed, white parts sliced 1/2 in. thick

• 1 pint cherry tomatoes

• 1 lemon, sliced in half horizontally

• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 tbsp. fresh thyme

Directions

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the chicken with 2 tablespoons of the oil and arrange on a large rimmed baking sheet. In the same bowl, toss the scallions and tomatoes with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Arrange these in an even layer around the chicken.

Squeeze half of the lemon over the chicken and vegetables. Cut the remaining half of the lemon into thin slices and arrange on top of the chicken.

Drizzle any remaining oil over the chicken and vegetables. Sprinkle the salt, pepper and thyme over the chicken and vegetables.

Roast until the chicken and vegetables are fully cooked and caramelized at the edges, and the chicken registers 160 degrees on a meat thermometer, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer the chicken to a cutting board to rest for about 3 to 5 minutes.

To serve, cut the chicken into slices 2 inches thick and serve with the vegetables. Drizzle the pan juices over chicken and vegetables.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.