When I'm not eating strawberries straight out of the carton, I toss them on salads, yogurt or shortbread piled with cream. Their neon color and sweet-tart essence conjures teenage memories of the slushies we bought on the boardwalk in Point Pleasant, N.J. We sipped these brain-numbing concoctions as we washed the sand from our feet.

You just can't beat a fresh strawberry cocktail — it's the ideal grown-up summer drink. Whether sparked with a spirit or made N/A with a dash of bitters, it's quick and simple, perfect for two and party-worthy when expanded to fill a frosty pitcher. There's no firm definition of a strawberry cocktail; it's more of a vibe than a precise recipe that requires special equipment and a particular technique. (We're not making martinis.)

Fresh local strawberries pop with flavor, meaning the drinks don't need extra sugar and the pretty hue is as playful as our festive sunsets. Do vary the seasonal fruit as it comes to the farmers markets — raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, black raspberries; our local melons in pastel shades work beautifully, too.

The daiquiri is well suited to strawberries. It's most often made with lime and sugar and named for a town on the southeast tip of Cuba. Or, a margarita also works well. Some say the drink evolved from the old-school "sidecar," with the brandy replaced by tequila and salt added to the rim. The main difference between these two? White rum is for a daiquiri, tequila for margarita. But you'll have success with vodka (gin contains too many botanicals; it's better with tonic). Kick an N/A version up a notch with a shot of local bitters or just add more lime.

Tart and sweet and elusive, the strawberry cocktail is essence of summer. So please, don't wait.

Fresh berries make sweet summer cocktails — with or without liquor. (Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Strawberry Cocktail

Serves 4 to 6.

This surefire crowd pleaser is inspired by two beloved summer cocktails — the daiquiri, with white rum, and the margarita, with tequila. But vodka works here, too. For an N/A version, skip the spirit and add a shot of local bitters. (Bittercube's Bright Orange works especially well.) The recipe is easily scaled up or down and can be made ahead and held in the fridge for an hour or two. From Beth Dooley.

• 3/4 c. white rum, tequila or vodka (see Note)

• 1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced, plus a few whole berries for garnish

• 1/2 c. lime juice

• Granulated sugar to taste and to garnish the rim

• 1 c. ice cubes or crushed ice

• Mint leaves, for garnish

Directions

In a blender, process the rum, strawberries and lime juice to make a purée. Taste and add a little sugar as needed. Add the ice and process again to desired consistency.

Pour enough granulated sugar onto a small rimmed plate and fill a small bowl with a little water. Dip the rim of the glasses into a little water and then into the sugar. Carefully pour the cocktail into the glasses. Garnish with a sliced strawberry and mint leaf.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.