Miso soup proves that not all comfort food needs to be heavy fare

It's countdown to the holidays — how are you holding up?

When I've had enough of this busy, dark, cold season, I reset my senses with miso soup. It's warming, restorative, easy and ready in minutes.

Miso, a traditional paste made from fermented soybeans and barley or rice, is a pantry staple in Asian homes. It tastes deeply savory and a tad meaty, with toasty, slightly funky-salty-rich notes — in short, the classic umami. Swirl a few teaspoons into hot water, add a splash of lime juice or rice wine vinegar and a dash of soy sauce, light a candle and breathe.

In the United States it's safe to say that miso paste is categorized by color. The most popular and widely available is white miso (shiro miso), mellow and slightly sweet; yellow (shinshu miso) is a darker yellow, saltier and more assertive; and red (aka miso) is fermented longer to be very salty and pungent (it can overwhelm, so use sparingly). There are other types of miso as well, the boldest and darkest being Hatcho, made solely from soybeans aged three years.

Store miso in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator; it keeps for up to nine months. Along with miso's beneficial nutritional and probiotic properties, I like the way just a teaspoon or two deepens the flavor of soups, stews, marinades and dressings.

The best thing about this soup is that you really don't need a recipe. Add any vegetables you happen to have on hand. A little rice, soba or buckwheat noodles, or angel hair pasta is welcome, too. Healing and comforting, this soup looks nothing like "comfort food," plus it's cheaper and quicker than takeout.

Serves 2 to 4.

Note: For a richer soup, start with a broth of chicken, mushroom or vegetables. Cook the pasta in the broth and then add the vegetables so they're just tender crisp. It's best to dissolve the miso in a little hot water before adding to the pot; then season to taste. From Beth Dooley.

• 6 c. water or stock (chicken, vegetable, mushroom)

• 1 in. fresh ginger, peeled and finely diced, or more to taste

• 4 to 6 oz. dried vermicelli rice noodles or angel hair pasta

• 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

• 2 c. spinach or kale, thinly sliced

• 1/4 c. white miso, or more to taste, dissolved in 1/2 c. hot water

• 4 to 6 oz. firm tofu, cubed

• Soy sauce, to taste

• Rice wine vinegar or lime juice, to taste

Directions

In a medium pot, bring the water or stock and ginger to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the noodles, pepper and spinach. Stir in the dissolved miso, then add the tofu and heat through. Season to taste with the soy sauce and rice wine vinegar or lime juice. Serve immediately.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.