Monkey business on Selby

There was a time -- too long ago to say without sounding like an old coot -- when the 500 block of Selby Avenue was one of my favorite drop-by dining addresses, because it was the home of the much-missed Francesca's Bakery and Cafe. Now, thanks to the Cheeky Monkey Deli -- located across the street from what was once Francesca's -- St. Paul's Cathedral Hill neighborhood has a new venue for thoughtfully prepared, counter-service fare.

It's no accident that chef/co-owner Matt McArthur chose the former Zander Cafe for his new venue; he cooked there for nearly a year, and "I've loved this area ever since," he said. McArthur's dream was to do a deli. Not one based on the familiar New York-Jewish model, but instead one that follows the soup-sandwich-hot plate template of the delis he loves in London.

The chalkboard menu features a short list of hot and cold sandwiches, made using house-smoked and -cured meats and sold in the $5 to $8 range. Options include bacon and a fried egg on toast, a pressed grilled Swiss-fontina-Cheddar combo garnished with caramelized onions, a stack of roast beef topped with a tangy blue cheese dressing and sun-dried tomatoes and a classic muffuletta. There are a few abundantly portioned salads ($7 and $8), including a plate of greens tossed with chickpeas, cucumbers, bits of tarragon and pint-size shrimp. Dinner plates ($8) are standards such as pot roast, meatloaf, slow-roasted pork shoulder and turkey or chicken pot pie, served with a few side dishes ($3) such as roasted vegetables or grits. There are also changes-daily cheese and meat selections ($10). The no-nonsense desserts include a rich chocolate pudding, super-fudgy brownies and buttery M&M-pocked blondies.

There's a brief and affordable beer and wine list, and the appealing setting seems designed with comfort in mind. In short, the Cheeky Monkey is just what the neighborhood has been missing.

RICK NELSON