5 Twin Cities restaurants that opened while you were on summer vacation

Union Depot is bringing back the romance of train travel. It starts with the Borealis, the new Amtrak line between St. Paul and Chicago that’s drawn thousands of enthusiastic riders since it was launched this past spring. But all those new passengers need somewhere to eat, and Union Depot’s soaring head house is now the new home of 1881 by Lake Elmo Inn.

Founded by the family behind Lake Elmo’s long-running supper club, 1881 brings many of the sister establishment’s signature dishes and stiff cocktails to Lowertown St. Paul for a meal with the glamour of yesteryear.

Where: Union Depot, 214 E. 4th St., St. Paul, 1881bylei.com. Parking Lot B (200 E. Kellogg Blvd.) has the easiest access to the head house, and guests who spend $75 or more before tax and gratuity can have their tickets validated.

Hours: Open for lunch, happy hour and dinner Wed.-Sun. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

The food: Northern ingredients such as wild rice and sunnies shine on a menu of classics that say “special occasion.” Start with crabcakes, French onion soup or a chopped wedge salad; entrees span from panko-crusted Canadian walleye to a 14-ounce Cajun pork chop; we recommend ordering from the steaks and chops list. Desserts are equally timeless: cheesecake, French silk and Key lime pie.

At lunchtime, there’s an emphasis on sandwiches: turkey and swiss on cranberry wild rice bread was a favorite at our table, or consider a Reuben or a straightforward 8-ounce ground sirloin burger (cheese is extra).

Most courses offer a gluten-free option, and several dishes are vegetarian-friendly, including a 6-ounce plant-based filet mignon and butternut squash ravioli in sage brown butter.

The drinks: The striking central bar is turning out classic cocktails with a twist, such as a sherry cobbler and a Champagne cocktail, and a highlighted barrel-aged Manhattan that won over my party. There is a selection of mocktails that employ housemade syrups and reductions, and six local beers are on tap.

Prices: Starters and salads: $8-$25; sandwiches (with fries or soup): $14-$20; entrees and steaks: $26-$45; desserts: $10-$11; cocktails: $12-$16.

Fun fact: In a serendipitous twist, the name 1881 comes from the year that both Union Depot and Lake Elmo Inn were originally established; it also happens to be the brand of Hereford beef used in the restaurant’s melt-in-your-mouth New York strip. (Sharyn Jackson)

Sitting inside the beautifully appointed interior of Tap In, it’s hard to fathom that this building filled with polished wood, organic shapes and greenery could ever have been a convenience store, let alone one that sat vacant for months. The dramatic transformation took some time, opening this summer — years after developer Christopher Webley of New Rules announced the ambitious plans — with garage doors that roll back, allowing summer breezes to circulate through the dining room.

Where: 2618 Lowry Av. N., Mpls.; tapinmn.com

Hours: Sun., Wed.-Thu. noon-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. noon to 11 p.m. There are rumors of brunch being added.

The food: The menu is built on soul food comforts with a modern twist. There are a few distinct dishes offered in different ways: a generous catfish fillet can be broiled or fried and served as an entree or as a sandwich, and slow-braised brisket can be a full meal or sandwich for lunch or dinner. Don’t miss out on the dry-rub wings; our server said the chef is famous for his secret recipe.

The menu isn’t all meat-focused, although that’s where we started. There’s crispy fried tofu, kale Caesar salad, roasted Brussels sprouts and braised collard greens that alone are worth a drive across town.

The drinks: Cocktails are classics with innovations, such as a summery margarita mixed with fresh cantaloupe juice, sweetened with agave and served with a salty-spicy rim of Tajin. In addition to mixed drinks, there’s a selection of nonalcoholic beverages that are given as much care as the spiked ones, like a passion fruit soda.

Prices: Starters are $7-$14, sandwiches $15-$20, entrees $21-$25. (Joy Summers)

A fiery hearth glows at the center of Black Duck, chef/owner Jason Sawicki’s long-awaited restaurant on a friendly neighborhood corner in northeast Minneapolis. Its warmth and light are a dazzling backdrop to Sawicki’s daring and comforting dishes.

The seasoned chef behind the Fare Game food trailer, Sawicki had plans to open a brick-and-mortar much sooner, before the pandemic got in the way. The delay was more than enough time for him to fine-tune every detail, opening an already dialed-in place that can just as easily become a neighborhood haunt as it could be a destination.

Where: 2900 NE. Johnson St., Mpls., blackduckmpls.com.

Hours: Wed.-Mon. 4-9 p.m. Lunch to come this fall.

The food: Duck, of course, shows up on the menu in more ways than one, but fire and smoke are the main ingredients woven throughout the meal. The menu is broken into five categories, and we ordered one from each section: cold, hot, hearth, bar fare and vegetable sides.

The nosh plate was a mouthwatering way to start: thinly sliced speck with shaved manchego and compressed cantaloupe sprinkled with Tajin. Next, pierogi (Sawicki is first-generation Polish) are buttery and classic. The duck burger, Oklahoma onion-style, was an offbeat handheld choice when Sawicki is well known for his beef smashburger; we’ll be going back to try that one.

Even though my party had FOMO over every entree that came out of the kitchen, we had to order the restaurant’s namesake, tender slices of duck breast with duck confit and chochoyotes — blue masa dumplings cooked in duck fat, inspired by Oro by Nixta. It paired perfectly with a dish Sawicki encouraged us to order, and it turned out to be the night’s standout: smoked, meaty florets of cauliflower dusted in chile and bathed in pecan cream sauce. That’s one of several dishes that put vegetables first, and that could feed vegetarians heartily.

Dessert is equally seasonal; if the sweet corn ice cream that came with our superb slice of Basque cheesecake is still on the menu, order it.

The drinks: The cocktail program comes from Ra’Jean Jones, who takes playful turns with familiar libations, such as a smooth-drinking “Rum-hattan” and a cool and creamy brandy Alexander for dessert.

Prices: Cold starters $8.50-$19, hot starters $18.50-$23.50, hearth fare $24.50-$38.50, bar fare $11.50-$18.50, vegetables: $14.50-$16.50; desserts: $6-$10; cocktails: $14-$16.

What’s in a name: Sawicki chose the migratory duck to be the centerpiece of his concept (and his highly seasonal menu) because it represented his “calm demeanor” on the surface: “Starting the food trailer to keep my dream alive, while underneath the water I was paddling frantically trying to get through the commercial development process and bring the restaurant to life.” (S.J.)

As Tender Lovin’ Chix (also referred to as TLC) started hosting pop-ups a few years ago, and then rolled out a food truck this past year, it has continued to gain a cult following for its well-executed, panko-crusted tenders. So when Marques Johnson and Billy Tserenbat recently opened a brick-and-mortar version at the corner of 27th Street and Lyndale Avenue S. in Minneapolis, fans rejoiced that there was a permanent address to get their fix.

The new digs can be found in the former Fire & Nice Ale House (and Heyday before that). While the space has been given a makeover with the brand’s signature bright red and white accents, familiar details, such as the penny floor tiles that date back to Heyday, remain.

Where: 2700 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., tenderlovinchix.com.

Hours: Sun.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

The food: The menu includes snacks and chicken wings, but the stars of the show are the chicken tenders, available in a variety of combinations. We tried the classic tenders with fries basket as well as a combo with Tokyo fried rice. We could see why the place had a cult following, with the wow factor being the coating of panko crumbs skillfully cooked to a light, airy crisp. The favorite was the one with fried rice, or the Rush Hour 4. We appreciated that the fried rice was neutrally seasoned to bring out the fragrant green onions, and that the tiny, light and bright diced carrots were cooked to a nice al dente. A yum dipping sauce, the aioli of Asian cuisine, was served on the side and gave the chicken a nice kick when we wanted it.

The drinks: Standards are represented here with a twist, from a mule with grapefruit- and rose-infused vodka to a Redbull vodka splashed with elderflower liqueur. Wine and beer, including local brews, are also available.

Prices: Snacks $6-$14, wings $16, fried rice $10-$12, main/combos $16-$18, cocktails $10-$12. (Nancy Ngo)

Want some caviar and crème fraîche to go with those fries? The hands-down fanciest sports bar in the Twin Cities, with dishes bearing ingredients you would rarely utter in the same sentence, is what you might come to expect from Daniel del Prado, who has been giving diners inventive takes at his various restaurant concepts (including Colita, Martina, Blondette and Porzana in Minneapolis and Josefina and Macanda in Wayzata).

Del Prado has joined forces with Carla and Spencer Jones for this latest venture in the 50th and France area. The space infuses warm woods and cushy booths that feel refined for a sports bar while aiming to be approachable enough to attract regulars. Flat screens dotted throughout allow you to watch the game from any vantage point. Wings, sandwiches and burgers — with cheffy touches — are all represented on the menu.

Where: 3717 W. 50th St., Mpls., dextersmpls.com.

Hours: Sun.-Thu. 4-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-11 p.m.

The food: In addition to those fries and caviar, it’s also worth noting that those who love the wings at Monte Carlo in the North Loop might want to try these, too. They’re also all about the warm, earthy spices and great execution.

Burger fans will have fun checking out the eight varieties of double smashburgers. We can vouch that the mushroom burger, in which the restaurant expresses its love for fungus with pickled shimeji, mushroom pâté and truffle mayo served with a Madeira jus for dipping, is a game-changer. The elote burger with charred corn and chipotle mayo offers a lighter and brighter flavor with a kick from jalapeño slices. Other menu favorites included the decadent seafood roll of lobster and shrimp overflowing from the New England-style hot dog roll. (Next time we’ll ask for it without the bacon, which slightly distracted from the seafood.)

The drinks: Martinis (there’s even a martini flight) and craft cocktails reign as part of Megan Luedtke’s drink program. Mocktails are also available, as is a list of about two dozen wines, both domestic and European.

Prices: Starters $7-$26, salads $14-$16, charcuterie $12-$19, burgers $14-$17, sandwiches $14-$25, kids’ menu $6-$9, desserts $7-$9. (N.N.)