PinKU returns as an omakase counter at Eat Street Crossing

PinKU in Japanese means the color pink, but as in many languages, the word doesn’t mean just one thing. And for chef John Sugimura, it’s a word that has become his legacy.

“PinkU also means democracy, kindness and civility. Pink is also ... well, everyone who knows anything about me knows I’m as gay as can be. Pink also challenges people to talk about stereotypes,” said Sugimura. That’s why he chose the name for his beloved PinKU Japanese Street Food restaurant, which closed in 2021. Now fans of the restaurant have a fresh opportunity to taste their favorites and new food from the chef — as he prepares it for them.

PinKU by Chef John opened Saturday inside Eat Street Crossing food hall in Minneapolis, in the space formerly occupied by Sushi Dori, which ended its run July 21. The built-in sushi counter is now decorated with a few additional touches: pink seat cushions on the stools, pink curtains draped behind it and the chef’s family crest hung at the back.

The omakase counter will only be open for ticketed dinners Fridays and Saturdays, with a chef-curated, five-course meal and drinks available at two pricing tiers, $49 or $96. “I’ll do all my favorites, elevated,” said Sugimura. “I love to look at people eye to eye and have that face time with customers. My mission is to share the Japanese American experience with you — and share my grandmother’s story. I can share my story or talk about internment camps and explain all of it through every morsel of food in front of you.”

Sugimura burst onto the Twin Cities food scene with PinKU first as a private chef and then as a 30-seat location on University Avenue in Northeast, where the restaurant was part of a fast-casual boom in 2016. Inspired by his love of the Nishiki Market in Kyoto, Japan, he built a steady following for dishes like crispy rice with salmon.

After closing the original PinKU at the end of 2021, the chef began working with Taher Inc., a job he’ll keep. The company operates school and corporate cafeterias and campus dining halls across the country.

Sugimura says he’s excited to work with Eat Street Crossing to bring his deeply personal story to such an intimate setting. “To have that range of doing food and beverage — I couldn’t ask for more,” he said.

Working with chef Louross Edralin, who recently opened Family Meal in the food hall, and the Wyn Group, the company behind Asia Mall, Burnsville Center and the forthcoming Asia Village, PinKU by Chef John will only have Friday and Saturday service at first.

The new stand will ebb and flow with consumer demands, but judging by that first weekend, which quickly sold out, appetites are high for the experience. August dinner reservations were released July 28 and tickets promptly sold out. Follow @PinKUchefJohn on Instagram for updates and future reservations.

Eat Street Crossing, 2819 Nicollet Av., Mpls., eatstreetcrossing.com