They conquered fried chicken, and now Revival takes on Chicago’s beef dip

Revival’s fried chicken was born from chef Thomas Boemer’s warmest taste memories. What followed was a renewed dedication to the dish that swept the region.

His restaurant will once again dip into food nostalgia, and we’re primed for an era of Chicago’s best sandwich — and tavern-style pizzas — getting its due at Bar Revival, the refreshed version of Revival St. Paul that opens Thursday.

Only this time it was Nick Rancone with the nostalgic food cravings. Having honed his fine-dining service skills during his formative years in Chicago, Rancone also loved a South Side dive bar with square-cut pizzas. Days and late-night recoveries were fueled by juice-saturated slices of beef stuffed into fluffy Italian rolls. It’s the kind of eating that soaks into a food lover’s soul and lingers no matter how many years pass.

“I think people just get fatigued of doing all the serious things,” said Rancone. “I mean, we’re still Nick and Thomas. There’s going to be a certain level of execution, but where we’re aiming is for a bit of fun.”

For them to do any dish justice, including Revival’s now-revered fried chicken, they first had to study what makes a great hot beef sandwich, and how a super-thin crust pizza can still impart a ton of flavor. After extensive eating missions through the Windy City, the two went deep to crack the code. Now, they’re ready to share.

“Whether you want it dipped, wet or dry — these are all different things,” said Boemer. “There might be a bit of a learning curve on how to order. Like, getting it dipped is just impossible to eat with your hands.”

Boemer zeroed in on making an exceptional hot beef sandwich, starting with the beef seasoning, roasting method and even the ideal way veggies are chopped for the giardiniera. “It can’t be like antipasta hunks, small slices of vegetables,” said Boemer.

For somewhere around $16, diners can order a hot beef sandwich any way they like: with hot or sweet peppers, cheese, cheese sauce and varying degrees of juice involvement.

And then there’s the pizza. “I hope people know that tavern is the dominant style of pizza for people who live in Chicago. Not deep dish — which is fine," Rancone said. “It’s not really my thing.”

Revival Bar’s pizza is cut in squares like a Minnesota pie, but this crust is unleavened — a thin vessel for toppings, which include pepperoni with nubs, cups and slices that echoes school lunch toppings. There’s also a hot pickle pizza with housemade pickles, fresh dill and pickled peppers over a garlicky white sauce. And lest we forget that these are the fried chicken guys, there’s a Tennessee Hot pizza that’s finished with a drizzle of ranch.

Revival has long been touted among burger aficionados as one of the better ones in town, and Boemer is ready to have more fun with the patties.

“I did this jalapeño popper burger special this summer that went crazy," he said. “We‘re putting that on the menu. We’re also doing an Oklahoma-style smashed into the onions and a patty melt. The beet Reuben will also stay on the menu — that’s a crusher.”

And every good party needs a bar. “We’re taking the craft out of cocktails,” quipped Rancone. Easy pre-batched mixes like a pink lemonade punchy party drink or an ode to the Wisconsin supper club Old Fashioned with “neon red cherry garnish.” An affordable beer and a bump of good bourbon is also an option. Drinks will start around $8 for a rail pour. Booze snobs will still find the good stuff behind the bar, but the goal for Bar Revival is more neighborhood hang.

“I am getting a blender,” said Rancone. “How great will it be to sit back on that patio and have a really solid margarita?”

To make way for the new, a few food items had to leave the menu. All barbecue operations have moved to Revival’s Minneapolis location.

Revival St. Paul (525 Selby Av., revivalrestaurants.com) is currently closed to in-person dining (but still doing takeout) while the room is reworked and Boemer paints a mural. On Dec. 5, at 3 p.m., it will reopen as Bar Revival. The restaurant will be open for lunch through dinner and, if there’s neighborhood demand, later hours might return.

Boemer and Rancone first partnered in 2013 at the fine-dining Corner Table, where the duo never stopped sharing food ideas. The first Revival opened in 2015 in Minneapolis and expanded to St. Paul the following year. Corner Table closed in 2019, and that location became the Minneapolis Revival. There’s also an outpost in St. Louis Park and a counter inside Market at Malcolm Yards.