Just yesterday, a gift box of Florida grapefruit and oranges arrived on my doorstep. Citrus, at its seasonal peak, is the best fresh produce in the market right now. The sunny flavors brighten a cold and gray day, especially in a salad.

Though a citrus salad may sound more like brunch, the many varieties of oranges and grapefruit have a natural affinity for salt, pepper and oil. When their vibrant colors are dotted with briny olives and pops of pomegranate, they make a salad that's far more appealing than one of wimpy greens.

The tangy flavors cut through those heavy foods we enjoy in this busy season. These salads can be a very simple affair or you can up the ante with thinly sliced fennel, red onion, arugula, mint and basil. Sprinkle on a few flakes of red pepper, a pinch of coarse salt and ground black pepper and you've got a beautiful addition to the holiday buffet or a lively first course for a dinner party.

The best way to peel citrus is to slice off both ends at the poles so you have a fat surface; stand the fruit upright, then cut close to the pulp with a sharp knife to remove the skin in strips along with as much of the bitter pith as you can. Slice the fruit into wheels and arrange to show the colors and sizes.

For a dressing, use a mix of sharp and sweet to bring out the contrasting flavors in the fruit. Just a few drops of olive oil, a splash of vinegar or lime juice, a drizzle of honey is all you need. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and you'll have a celebratory salad for a party tonight — and the winter days to come.

Festive Citrus Salad

Serves 4.

This salad can be prepared a day or two ahead and held in a covered dish in the refrigerator. Just dress it before serving; it's best at room temperature. A sprig of rosemary adds a lovely, light piney note. From Beth Dooley.

• 3 navel oranges

• 1 pink grapefruit

• Coarse salt

• 1 shallot, trimmed and chopped

• 1 sprig rosemary

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 tbsp. lime juice

• 1/4 tsp. honey, optional

• Coarse ground black pepper

• Pinch red pepper flakes

• 1/4 c. chopped black Kalamata olives

• 1/4 c. pomegranate seeds

Directions

Peel and then cut the oranges and grapefruit into discs or half-moons and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with a pinch of coarse salt. Add shallots and a sprig of rosemary and cover to rest for 1 hour or in the refrigerator overnight.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lime juice and honey, if using. Drizzle over the salad. Grind a little black pepper over the salad and add a pinch of red pepper flakes. Scatter the olives and pomegranate seeds over the salad. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.