Potica at Iron Ranger
During the holiday season on Minnesota's Iron Range, grandmas spend hours stretching enriched dough, gently nudging it ever thinner until their knuckles are visible through it. Then, a heady mix of crushed nuts, cinnamon, honey and sugar is spread over the dough before it's rolled over and over into a multilayer loaf that is baked into a sweet treat.
My grandmother possessed other talents, so we depended on neighbors or markets to purchase a loaf of potica, the Slovenian baked delicacy. Our go-to store was always Hibbing's Sunrise Bakery.
Now that I'm farther away, I have to get even more creative to satisfy my holiday bread craving. Luckily, Tom Forti of St. Paul's Iron Ranger is the grandson of Sunrise Bakery's original owner. And he ships the bread down from his cousins, who still operate the bakery. In his restaurant, it's served either as a dessert — part of the three P's of pasty, porketta and potica — or as a frozen loaf to-go.
The bread's outer layers crumble when handled, leaving sticky sweet nibbles behind. The texture is equal parts ethereal and tacky, with tender crumbly walnuts studding the stuffing. It's just not the holiday season until I've had a bite of potica. And in December, a few slices slathered with generous pats of butter, all cold straight from the fridge, is absolutely an acceptable breakfast. (Joy Summers)
1085 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-487-1913, ironrangermn.com. Opens at 4 p.m. Tue.-Thu., noon Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m. Sun.
Double-cut Duroc pork chop at the Butcher's Tale
There's plenty to look forward to at the Butcher's Tale, Peter Botcher's ode to meat. His excellent charcuterie and cheese platter, for one; Elsbeth Young-Haug's pastries, for another. But you come for meat, and you should order it.
Botcher sources his pork from Duroc pigs — they're fattier and more robust in flavor. And tender, too: For such a hulking portion of meat (3 inches or so in thickness), it is remarkably moist. That's also because Botcher wet-brines the pork and cooks it evenly so it's a light shade of pink throughout and slightly rosy toward the bone.
In keeping with the theme of Butcher's Tale, there's just char on the grill to lend smokiness; goat cheese and a blueberry glaze add splendid amounts of acidity and sweetness ($49). It's not subtle, but then again, little on the menu is. (Jon Cheng)