Raspberry Pie at Murray's
The teal and chrome exterior, humming neon sign and promise of a "silver butter knife steak" is a backdrop of downtown Minneapolis. Murray's is a local icon for steaks and extraordinary service. But why didn't I know about the pie?
We hadn't intended to order dessert. I recycled my standard line of, "We'll just look at the menu," and our expert server gently guided us to the raspberry pie. An achievement in pastry — a glory of berry and crust — it's a pure summer in every bite.
To make this dish is a labor of love. Pastry chef Chris Gambino hand-selects and places each berry inside a wonderfully crumbly crust. Each $10 slice contains a pint of raspberries, which have been covered with a light sheen and a whisper of gelatin to hold it all together, but not enough to get in the way of the wonderful, juicy texture. Between the crust and berries is a thin swipe of raspberry preserves, working as a sweet barrier to protect the texture of both. Then the whole business is topped with a plenteous hit of barely sweetened whipped cream.
I also found out that you can order an entire pie ($50). With at least 24 hours' notice, this could be the crown jewel of our next potluck or dinner party. (Joy Summers)
26 S. 6th St., Mpls., 612-339-0909, murraysrestaurant.com.

Fusilli Negra at Josefina
One of my all-time grail pastas, a fusilli with red wine-braised octopus and bone marrow, hails from Marea, a seafood-Italian restaurant in New York, created by a chef who isn't from Italy, but from Beloit, Wis.
Daniel del Prado isn't from Italy — he's a native of Argentina — and he, too, has created a pasta dish that I am certain is one of the finest in the Twin Cities. By coincidence, it's fusilli again, but of squid ink variety, with generous, appealingly springy cuts of lobster, cloaked in just enough of the cherry tomato sauce to brighten ($32). On top are some chives and a few lilting furls of mint. It's faultless.
There certainly are notes of a pared-down Marea at Josefina, one of del Prado's newer restaurants, which opened last spring in the former Bellecour. Yes, it's less power-dining, more evocative of a charming town in the south of Italy, but his menu lured me just the same. Maybe that's why. (Jon Cheng)