The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities area this week

The Taste team shares the highlights of their weekly dining experiences.

Burger Dive’s House Burger at the 1029 Bar. (Sharyn Jackson, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Burger Dive's House Burger at the 1029 Bar

My colleague Joy Summers' list of iconic Twin Cities dive bars dropped this week, and I went along for the ride as she did some old-fashioned, shoe-leather reporting. That meant a whirlwind night out in northeast Minneapolis to revisit many of her longlist contenders.

At the first couple of stops, we picked at some questionable bar snacks that might have tasted better after at least three more beers. Then, we found ourselves at the 1029 Bar.

Smack Shack transformed this corner dive's menu — along with the idea of what kind of food can be a worthy pairing to a Hamm's and a basket of pulltabs — when Josh Thoma's food truck moved in more than a decade ago. You can still get a lobster roll and other shrimpy, clammy fare at the 1029, even if some of the grizzled regulars will talk your ear off about the price of a shellfish sandwich. But we were here for the burgers.

Burger Dive, another Thoma venture (with chef Nick O'Leary), joined the 1029 kitchen last month. It's a return to the neighborhood after first launching in 2019 up the road at Tony Jaros River Garden. And the burgers are as good as ever. For the house burger ($12.50), beefy patties get smashed on the grill till the edges are crispier than the (excellent) fries. White American cheese oozes. House pickles add snap and tang to cut the richness. It's everything you want in a burger, and more than you might expect from a place that hangs bras from the ceiling. (Sharyn Jackson)

1029 NE. Marshall St., Mpls., 612-379-4322, the1029bar.com

What’s not to love about Beyoncé and chocolate doughnuts? (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Girls Luv Beyoncé Doughnut from the Donut Trap

When one happens upon a vending machine selling fresh, local doughnuts named after the icon that is Beyoncé as she made history by becoming the winningest Grammy Award recipient of all time, there are no choices. The doughnut must be ordered. And it doesn't matter if there are shopping bags to be jostled in the middle of a weekday afternoon. The sun was shining, Valentine's Day was approaching and the doughnut's called "Girls Luv Beyoncé."

This particular treat is one of several offerings found inside the Donut Trap's unique vending machine that's currently parked next to the escalators inside Rosedale Center. The Donut Trap began as "Sssdude-Nutz," founded by Bradley Taylor, who peddled his creatively topped sweet, fried wares near the University of Minnesota. He closed the original shop in 2017 and moved into the mobile food universe.

Several years later, the treats still carry their signature whimsy. Girls Luv Beyoncé ($4) is a caky, almost quick-bread-textured doughnut, topped with a thick, rich chocolate ganache that's spiked with a sassy bit of cherry amaretto. (Joy Summers)

Find Donut Trap vending machines at Rosedale Center or in the hallway outside BlackStack Brewing and Can Can Wonderland in St. Paul. thedonuttrap.com.

Tostada and dip at Sooki & Mimi. (Nicole Hvidsten, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Tostada and dip at Sooki & Mimi

When the Sooki & Mimi Instagram post asked "Did someone say Squashamole," we enthusiastically answered "yes." This inventive spin on the traditional Mexican dip swapped in butternut squash for avocado and was topped with pepita gremolata, chile oil, jalapeños and a healthy dose of cilantro ($14). Housemade crispy heirloom tortillas provide the standout crunchy tostada-like dipping vessel. It's a light, spicy, fun and delicious starter to a meal in the dining room, but also a fine accompaniment to an after-work drink — try a stellar margarita or the rum-based Adelita ($15) — in the bar or Basement Bar.

For those who have never been to chef Ann Kim's Uptown restaurant, the mushroom birria tacos ($18) are among the must-haves: Those housemade tortillas are topped with a maitake confit, salty-melty queso chihuahua and shiitake crema and served with a dippable and drinkable vegetable consommé. Save room for dessert; the Japanese cheesecake ($11), a lighter, cakier and less sweet — but still plenty rich — version of traditional cheesecake, is worth it.

It's also worth noting that Sooki & Mimi now has valet parking Wednesdays through Saturdays ($15), saving the trouble of trying to figure out Minneapolis winter parking rules. (Nicole Hvidsten)

1432 W. 31st St., Mpls., 612-540-2554, sookiandmimi.com

Ice cream sundae at Legacy Chocolates
Hot Fudge Sundae at Legacy Chocolates. (Sharyn Jackson, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Hot Fudge Sundae at Legacy Chocolates

Need a love potion this Valentine's Day? Legacy Chocolates has just the thing.

This St. Paul chocolatier, nestled in the downtown St. Paul skyway, is known for its ultra-fresh truffles that come in four intensities (from 41% to 99% cocoa). But you can also stop by this slip of a cafe for muffins and cookies; granola and pie; coffee or a thick shot of sipping chocolate; or — my pick — an ice cream sundae topped with the shop's signature hot fudge, made with cocoa-butter-rich chocolate with cultured butter and fresh cream ($8.49).

The so-thick-it's-almost-chewy "Potion #9" chocolate sauce is drizzled over your choice of vanilla, chocolate or strawberry ice cream. (I chose strawberry for a pop of pink). A smattering of pecans and some whipped cream go on top and that's it. Just unadulterated sundae simplicity that lets Legacy's prized chocolate shine.

Tip: If you want to take home some of that superlative small-batch chocolate sauce, buy an 8-ounce container, either in store or online ($8.69). (Sharyn Jackson)

141 E. 4th St., St. Paul, 651-340-5252, legacychocolates.com

Shish is the gold standard for great gyros, so it’s understandable that we’ve been sleeping on the pancakes. (Joy Summers, Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Cardamom pancakes at Shish

I knew that Shish was my No. 1 stop for gyros. Since Leo and Beth Judah opened this gem of a restaurant near Macalester College in 2007, I've been drawn to that crispy, spit-roasted meat sandwich. So, it's hopefully forgivable that I was sleeping on the pancakes.

Shish defies expectations by doing multiple things well. In addition to the Middle Eastern dishes that share flavors from Leo's native Jerusalem, there's also a stunner of a dessert case with whole chocolate and carrot cakes. It's part college-friendly restaurant, serving the professors and students, but there's also an eye-opener menu that makes a strong case for why this ought to be a hopping daily breakfast stop.

As usual, I caved for my beloved gyro and ordered the Shish breakfast ($11.95): crispy/juicy meat sandwiched between two over easy eggs dusted with sumac and cucumber-yogurt sauce over warm pita. Then, feeling particularly saucy, I tacked on an order of cardamom pancakes ($9.95).

Towers of fluffy cakes lolled back and forth upon delivery, delicately perfumed with warm spices and augmented by a flourish of whipped cream and a tumble of luscious pineapple that are more than a simple garnish.

Consider this an official reminder that breakfast dessert is always a wise choice, and so is an early day stop at Shish. Next time let's meet up for Turkish coffees. (Joy Summers)

1668 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-690-2212, shishongrand.com

about the writers

about the writers

Sharyn Jackson

Reporter

Sharyn Jackson is a features reporter covering the Twin Cities' vibrant food and drink scene.

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Joy Summers

Food and Drink Reporter

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Minnesota Star Tribune in 2021.

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Nicole Hvidsten

Taste Editor

Nicole Ploumen Hvidsten is the Minnesota Star Tribune's senior Taste editor. In past journalistic lives she was a reporter, copy editor and designer — sometimes all at once — and has yet to find a cookbook she doesn't like.

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